PID on EBay

[WTDist]

So having just finishing putting my STC together and it works a treat i need to start thinking about ordering my PID. Remember i need to keep costs down so if i can get the same model $15 cheaper and wait 4 weeks more why not (even though i hate it but im a few months from AG) :angry-banghead: Also my wife orders all my ebay stuff so thats how she monitors what i spend there :))

Purpose is all grain beer and all grain whisky.

Want to order one with a SSR and heat sink all in one and im wondering about this one on ebay. Its a little on the cheap side but its the same model number that rummy posted in one of my other threads when i was asking about PID's n such. It says REX-C100 on front panel and RKC. ill add a pic and details at end from eBay page in in case people dont like links ;-)

The link to Ebay is
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-PID-Temp ... SwBnVW~KJp

After advice on weather or not this is a good one, seems the model/brand number on the front is same as most Ive come across that are much more expensive.

Cheers.
WTD

pid.jpg

Features
REX-C100 Temperature Controller
1.Measuring accuracy: ±0.5%FS
2.Cold-end compensation tolerance: ±2??can be modified by software in 0~50??
3.Resolution: 14 bit
4.Sampling cycle: 0.5 Sec
5. Power : AC 100-240V 50/60HZ
6.Process value (PV), Setting value (SV)
7.PIN control (including ON/OFF, step-type PID and continuous PID)
8Self-tuning control
9.Relay output: contact capacity 250V AC 3A (resistive load)
10.Proportional band (P): 0~full range (ON/OFF control when set to 0)
11.Detective temperature range?0 to 400?
12.Insulation resistance: >50M ohm(500V DC)
13.Insulation resistance : 1500V AC/min
14.Insulation resistance : Power Consumption < 10 VA
15.Service environment: 0~50?
16.environment with no corrosive gas 30~85% RH

K Thermocouple Probe Cable
1.Length: 1M
2.Sensor diameter:4.5mm
3.Temperature rang :0-400?
4.Internal Insulation: Fiberglass
5.External Shielding: Insulated Shielding

Max.40A SSR
1.Output Current:40A
2.Input Voltage:DC 3-32V
3.Output Voltage:24-380V AC
4.Output Voltage Range:Standard Type

Aluminum Alloy Heat Sink
Specification:
1.Materail: Aluminium alloy.
2.Size:Roof:50mmX60mm.Foot:80mmX50mm.
3.Height:43mm.
4.Compatible with:Designed specially for single phase solid state relay.
5.Color :Silver

Package Included:
1 X PID Temperature Controller
1 X K Type Probe Sensor
1 X Max.40A SSR
1 X Aluminum Alloy Heat Sink

[warramungas]

Couple of things.
Probe cord length is pathetic and I ended up buying a 3 meter long k type with a standard thread on the probe. They're reasonably cheap.
The thread on that probe is extreme coarse and I couldn't find a nut that would fit it and I have access to lots.
The ssr was faulty and I had to order a replacement. It wouldn't output any power and when I replaced it it worked fine.

[WTDist]

Couple of things.
Probe cord length is pathetic and I ended up buying a 3 meter long k type with a standard thread on the probe. They're reasonably cheap.
The thread on that probe is extreme coarse and I couldn't find a nut that would fit it and I have access to lots.
The ssr was faulty and I had to order a replacement. It wouldn't output any power and when I replaced it it worked fine.

cool. did you get this one? or similar?

What needs to go on the sensor?

[WTDist]

I can make do with the 1m length as my PID will be with the boiler for mashing. The SSR needs to be good though. I keep looking at other pages and they are all the same just price varies. They cant all be bad can they, do you think you maybe had a bad SSR?

What do you need to screw on the end of the sensor probe, isnt that enough to work or is there another part to test for temps that i cant seem to find. I see on a few more expensive ones they have a longer probe.


Rummy told me he uses this one, Whats the diff in SSR?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111423759632

Cheer's

[warramungas]

I can make do with the 1m length as my PID will be with the boiler for mashing. The SSR needs to be good though. I keep looking at other pages and they are all the same just price varies. They cant all be bad can they, do you think you maybe had a bad SSR?

What do you need to screw on the end of the sensor probe, isnt that enough to work or is there another part to test for temps that i cant seem to find. I see on a few more expensive ones they have a longer probe.


Rummy told me he uses this one, Whats the diff in SSR?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111423759632

Cheer's

Looks very similar to the one I bought.
The only dif is that one is 25 amps instead of 40. Both are fine. I just like to over engineer things as I work in an industry where if they can save $2 on a $50000 pump but it reduces the capacity to always run on the limit, they will. I hate that.
I would say I had a bad ssr as I ordered 2 replacements the same and the first one I changed was just plug and play.
You might need to get creative to make a socket for the probe which is as short as it looks. Maybe drill a fractionally undersize hole in a piece of copper or find tube the right size and force screw the stainless probe nut in to make a thread in it so you can remove it when you want. The cable length was too short for me so I didn't pursue it.
Cheers

I should add that though I've had it for months I haven't used it to control anything yet. Just as an expensive thermometer

[rumdidlydum]

From what i understand they all copies.
With what I wanted to do with it works perfectly.
I never mounted mine, I used a thermo well made from copper. It just slides in. What I do before each run is make sure its right at the end of the thermowell.
Logically I'm not getting a 100% true reading but for the small lack of accuracy it was worth it :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Kenster]

Dumb question...what is the purpose of this controller...is it just another thing we 'need' in terms of gadgets or is it a real tool.
I get that it regulates the temp but is it a necessity - as water flow in the condenser usually does the trick.
This is based on my limited T500 usage and i suppose that one day i will progress to this type of aid.
Not trying to be a jerk, just interested.

[WTDist]

cool thanks for the replies guys.

so if i get the basic PID from my original post (which sound fine on their own) and then get a sensor probe (RTD Pt100 Temperature Sensor Stainless Probe 2m Cable 100mm 3 Wires -70~500 ℃), and a decent SSR like maybe this one (top of 480VAC SSR list so can get a slightly better one), and maybe a PC fan (not sure if needed but have an old one or two laying around),

will that be all i need to control mashing temps for AG whisky and AG beer making? aside from wiring, boxes and etc

Would like to start my shopping list for parts, just need to know where to start

Cheers guys.




EDIT, Ken its not for the still, more for mashing all grain and making beer/whisky. It is a way to hold for example a perfect boil of 65 degrees (well maybe not boil at this temp) or whatever, for conversion of startch to sugars and flavour profiles. not practical for still control but for mashing and making beer it is. Its essential or me to make beer and whiskey since im not using gas and seems like it will easier. For me it is a must have gadget lol. plus im studying power engineering so its interesting to me too :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[rumdidlydum]

Just be careful that the pid can take that type of sensor. I know there's a couple of settings for different types. Probably be better off getting the sensor and pid together.

[warramungas]

Just be careful that the pid can take that type of sensor. I know there's a couple of settings for different types. Probably be better off getting the sensor and pid together.

Correct. Pretty sure you need a K type for simplicities sake. It will do the range you need without adjusting anything. The pids only got 2 points for connecting the probe up so dunno what the third wires for on that one.
If you're going to use a fan make sure its either rated to 240 volts or you have a transformer for a lower voltage one. 240 volt ones are expensive for a decent one but a fan and a transformer creates another level of complexity and cost to factor in.

[Meatheadinc]

I have use quite a few PIDs and have found most can take an RTD.
Most have 3 wure terminals for that purpose.
Its only a matter of changing menu settings
I have used many c900 and c700 as i perfer the larger size screen although i beleive the c100 has the same internals

[OzKev]

I would not use the REX, stay with the trusty old SESTOS. A few people on the homebrew side got the REX and wish they had not. Things like, you cant correct the temp offset, impossible to navigate menus etc. With the SESTOS and using a SSR you need the D1S-VR-220 model. I'm running 3 x SESTOS and all have been great.

If you want to run pc fans etc at 12v, get a simple transformer for under $6
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/100V-240V-to ... SwVupTo7ZB
This one has 1amp so will run a couple of fans / other 12v items.

[Meatheadinc]

I would not use the REX, stay with the trusty old SESTOS. A few people on the homebrew side got the REX and wish they had not. Things like, you cant correct the temp offset, impossible to navigate menus et

Temp can be corrected. From memory its labled "sc" in the first. Menu.
I havent had anymore difficulty with the rex than a stestos or an auber

[WTDist]

I would not use the REX, stay with the trusty old SESTOS. A few people on the homebrew side got the REX and wish they had not. Things like, you cant correct the temp offset, impossible to navigate menus et

Temp can be corrected. From memory its labled "sc" in the first. Menu.
I havent had anymore difficulty with the rex than a stestos or an auber

Cheers for the advice, do you use yours for beer or just whisky? Wondering how it will go with different temps it needs to hit. not sure what that means yet. just read it on AHB. People are slow on that site at getting back to you :angry-banghead:

Was looking at this one
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-240V-Digital-PID-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Temp-Control-D1S-VR-220-/231663976302?hash=item35f03fbf6e:m:mN2x3zsgZVo-29jpZkJazlA
and this probe
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stainless-steel-304-Celsius-Thermocouple-Probe-K-Wire-Temperature-Sensor-PT100-/271855088640?hash=item3f4bd37400:g:njMAAOSwrklVbZSG&rmvSB=true

with an SSR and heat sink etc...

Anyone think this is good. Ive asked over on AHB to see how well they go with beer making but got no response so far. Im sure REX will be good for whisky but my main concern is the good accuracy i need for brewing beer as well as this will be its main function

[Peregian]

I purchased these two items off ebay and have been very pleased with their performance.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RTD-Pt100-Te ... SwBahVCZgM

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220V-Digital ... XQ1ZhTex1p

Would have been better if the probe wiring had a 3 meter length rather than the 2 meter. You can check the accuracy of the probe in ice water and if it is out a little an adjustment can be made via the Sestos Pid unit.

I only use the Pid control box on the reflux still for the final neutral run, just use a smaller control box on the pot still, run it flat out on the first stripping run then use the controller to slow things down on the spirit run for Bourbon/Whisky.

The Sestos manual is a bit crap so it is good idea to download several different manuals and have a good read up, most of the cheaper Pids are similar although can vary a little.

[WTDist]

Cheers. Im set on SESTOS PID . Just wondering about SSR's as someone pointed out some FOTEK ones on ebay are fake and melt, over on AHB.
Maybe ill just get the kit with the SSR.

If i dont buy a probe, how do i use the one that comes with this PID, does it need something on the end where the thread is to work properly like the ones with a long probe?

[Peregian]

The probe that comes with the Sestos is a stubby screw in type,more suited to taking a surface temperature reading and the probe end is only about 3 centimeters in length from memory and I needed a probe that would sit down into the vapor path.

The probe I purchased is about 10 - 12 centimeters long and when fitted sits directly in the vapor path and seems to give an accurate reading.

You do read about SCR/SSR's burning or melting down, I have never had this problem but I always use a internal fan for cooling the units. My first controller build and the one I use the most is only a cheap SCR type with a fan and has performed well for about 2 years.