Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Nice setup on many PID controllers to look at thanks for the threads gents.
Much reading still not in any rush here do it once do it right.
No images from me atm;
I've just set the PID up testing it turning the shed light on and off atm.
Just setting up my PID I Have one simple question i have at the moment.
Where would the best place for the thermo coupler on 4" FSD NEUTRALIZER?
I cant belive how easy this PID is and it will be a new dawn from my Gas Pig Rig to electric distilling.

Thanks for that still Mr & Mrs Mac Cheers. The Quality of the service and Product is outstanding.

Many months away from running this rig as much going on just a spare hour.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers Pocket

All depends what yo are teying to acheive.?
In my mind use the PID to control water flow in the RC via solenoid valve or porportional valve
Again wate are you trying to acheive ?

Sorry mate but you cannot run a still by an off/on controller like a PID :handgestures-thumbdown:
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=3241
This is the type of controller you need to run a still by as it work by turning the Volts down but still keeps the power on( bit like tuning a gas burner up or down for more or less heat)
A pid will just get to your set temp and just shut off, and your still will just stop running and there is no set temp for running a bubbler.
Pid is good for a mash tun where you want to keep the mash at a set temp.
I hope this helps :handgestures-thumbupleft:

What PID are you using .. some have PWM

If you have a true pid controller you will have a proportional output. You may also have a switched output to do the lights like your doing but a pid normally is a massive overkill to be used to switch things on and off. A thermostat is best for on off control.
Get a pic of your unit up for us to have a look at. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Thanks for the reply's
The Question is where to put the themo coupler on the still. More to the point this specific still head.
I am om obviously controlling the elements. (My Bad)
Cheers pocket

Meatheadinc wrote:What PID are you using .. some have PWM

Yer rito PWM signals? just a friendly question here.. :oops:
I am using REX-C100 PID with a 40 A SSR one for each element not going to get into your technical lingo as i said many moths away.
I may have the wrong thermocoupler +K Cable.
Do it once do it right.
I am not going to dive in and mess shit up so i will just get started now.
With a distilled water run.
Cheers Thanks for the reply
Pocket

andybear wrote:If you have a true pid controller you will have a proportional output. You may also have a switched output to do the lights like your doing but a pid normally is a massive overkill to be used to switch things on and off. A thermostat is best for on off control.
Get a pic of your unit up for us to have a look at. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I've posted pics to soon here and got bagged so no images until i do the popper learning curve. hence the light in the shed. :oops:
Cheers
And Thanks for the reply Pocket

If ya thinkin you can set the temp to 78.5'c and it will run like a reflux still I think you will be mistaken ,the neutraliser(a plate based still) is controlled by adjusting the coolant flow to ya RC to get the required output,being flow rate and %ABV indicated with the parrot and alcometer ,I had only had reflux stills(nixon stone desighn) befor I bought one and the golden rule with them is ta run it to a still head temp of 78.5'c , but what ya didnot have is those bubble plates ,wich require a different aproach,its the amount of refluxing liquid that makes them do the job not the still temp ,that should only be considered a guide,most just use 2 elements ta heat to it starts flowing ,then 1 is shut off and the adjustments made to RC coolant flow.Above the RC would be were thermos have been put on the neutraliser befor ,but only as a guide.just my opinion tho ,cheers hillzabilly ;-)

hillzabilly wrote:If ya thinkin you can set the temp to 78.5'c and it will run like a reflux still I think you will be mistaken ,the neutraliser(a plate based still) is controlled by adjusting the coolant flow to ya RC to get the required output,being flow rate and %ABV indicated with the parrot and alcometer ,I had only had reflux stills(nixon stone desighn) befor I bought one and the golden rule with them is ta run it to a still head temp of 78.5'c , but what ya didnot have is those bubble plates ,wich require a different aproach,its the amount of refluxing liquid that makes them do the job not the still temp ,that should only be considered a guide,most just use 2 elements ta heat to it starts flowing ,then 1 is shut off and the adjustments made to RC coolant flow.Above the RC would be were thermos have been put on the neutraliser befor ,but only as a guide.just my opinion tho ,cheers hillzabilly ;-)

Thanks great info Cheers
This will just be part of the project I haven't event thought of a boiler might save up for the 100 litre one in the store :music-deathmetal:
Cheers some images so far it took a while to find the right box will pit this to use on my old girl then.
Thanks Cheers Pocket

Just begining


Just the story so far long way to go

Just a quick Thank-you
Many Runs in now on the plated column.

Ive been an avid LPG User for my runs for many years now It worked for me.

I was reading a thread that Mac posted regarding home made element guards one thing lead to another
So now I'm converted to electric ^:)^
I thought i might share my version on a 2400 Watt Home made element guard

I started with my 1" Female x Female that I had added to my boilers.

I Tacked one on to the element then I lined the inside with a PVC Pipe.
Fitted a standard House tap outlet reducer ( Orange part) one end is 1" BSP and the reduced end was the right thread for my feral.
My mate wired them registered sparky and showed my test and tag man "both happy"

Cost Bellow
1" BSP Element $38
1" BSP Female x Female $2.74
Used other bits from around the shed

Thanks Cheers Pocket