pot still design

Pot still design and discussion

pot still design

Postby Sam. » Thu Oct 11, 2012 9:24 pm

Use 1 inch for the outer jacket of the condenser like Mac said and it will be fine
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Thu Oct 11, 2012 9:31 pm

I can get 1.5" at the scrap yard so if it works out cheaper I might as well use that, But getting the reducers and all might be a struggle why I have to see tomorrow
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Re: pot still design

Postby Kimbo » Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:17 am

Cool Kelby,
let us know how you get on :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: pot still design

Postby JayD » Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:36 am

kelbygreen wrote:I can get 1.5" at the scrap yard so if it works out cheaper I might as well use that, But getting the reducers and all might be a struggle why I have to see tomorrow


:think: knock up the reducers yourself using a smaller tube and shape it to to fit...takes about 10 mins...
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Fri Oct 12, 2012 1:58 pm

Ok picked up some pipe today.

got 1m of 3" and 1.5m of 1" for $36 :P. Now for the worst part getting the fittings
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Re: pot still design

Postby Kimbo » Fri Oct 12, 2012 3:40 pm

kelbygreen wrote:Ok picked up some pipe today.

got 1m of 3" and 1.5m of 1" for $36 :P. Now for the worst part getting the fittings


Not a bad price there Kelby :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Fri Oct 12, 2012 4:15 pm

only just gotto get the solder to stick, its not happening. Might be the old pipe or the crap from the grain or something but I sanded it till it was bright on the pipe and inside the fitting and used flux but the solder is not getting sucked into the fitting, I read and watched videos that says to heat the fitting what I am but it is just forming a bead around the fitting and none is going into it. So as soon as I twist it or pull to the side it comes apart.

One joint stuck but the next one wont play the game I hope its the fitting as it sticks to the pipe heaps good, I have to heat the pipe to whip the solder off so I can clean it again.

Any tips? I got no new fittings to try with it. The pipe I got from the scrap yard looks brand new so thats a good sign I just wanna do this manifold to get used to soldering, I might have to buy new fittings and use them as its hard to clean inside them.
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Re: pot still design

Postby Kimbo » Fri Oct 12, 2012 4:43 pm

kelbygreen wrote:only just gotto get the solder to stick, its not happening. Might be the old pipe or the crap from the grain or something but I sanded it till it was bright on the pipe and inside the fitting and used flux but the solder is not getting sucked into the fitting, I read and watched videos that says to heat the fitting what I am but it is just forming a bead around the fitting and none is going into it. So as soon as I twist it or pull to the side it comes apart.

One joint stuck but the next one wont play the game I hope its the fitting as it sticks to the pipe heaps good, I have to heat the pipe to whip the solder off so I can clean it again.

Any tips? I got no new fittings to try with it. The pipe I got from the scrap yard looks brand new so thats a good sign I just wanna do this manifold to get used to soldering, I might have to buy new fittings and use them as its hard to clean inside them.

What type of solder are you using mate?
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Fri Oct 12, 2012 4:57 pm

Bernzomatic 45% silver the one in the blue pack
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Re: pot still design

Postby SBB » Fri Oct 12, 2012 5:33 pm

Try less heat and see how you go......to much heat will make the solder "ball up" in my experience.
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Fri Oct 12, 2012 5:44 pm

I been heating it slow trying the solder every 5 secs till it starts to run so cant be to hot. I think its just the old pipe its been used as a mash tun manifold for a year so might be contaminated. I cant really get the sandpaper in there enough to get a real good clean. Going to give another fitting a go in a min and see if that holds might just skip that one for now
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Re: pot still design

Postby Jonno » Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:06 pm

How thick is the copper?
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:07 pm

just standard 1/2, The 3" I got is pretty thick though about 3kg in 1m lol
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Re: pot still design

Postby emptyglass » Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:51 pm

Make sure your female part is sparkly clean. Wrap some emery around a dowel and hop into it. Male part is easy.
Don't touch the joint parts, clean with metho and lint free rag.
Apply flux, to both parts, then assemble and solder. Make sure all the bits you want to stick have some flux. Don't just paint it on and hope it seeps in.

Once you get it all happening, you may not need to do all the above.

What sort of flux are you using?
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:17 pm

flux is the one that came with the solder it came in a pack with the solder and flux together. There is one thing I just noticed is when I pull the joint apart the outside of the pipe and inside of the fitting is black. I thought contamination so found a bit of 1/2" offcut I had and a brass fitting and tried it on that and same thing pulled it apart and both are black.

I just done a run without the flux to see if that helps. Rang dad as he has done alot and he thinks it might not be hot enough so I heated it a bit more to see if I can get it to flow into the joint but the black inside the joining pieces has me stumped as I am heating the fitting not the pipe.
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Fri Oct 12, 2012 8:25 pm

well it held heaps better, I could bend the pipe without it letting go but I bashed it on the ground and it came apart, No blackness in the joins but no solder ether so the flux must be making it black in the join, but why wont it flow into the joint? maybe I am using the wrong solder? :angry-banghead:
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Re: pot still design

Postby emptyglass » Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:11 pm

No, the black shit is oxidisation and soot. Its the flux's job to stop this. Its not doing it. Don't go too hard with the heat, this can push any flux past its working temp range.

Try a different flux.

I like "bakers" soldering fluid.

Also, heat the whole join, not one part or the other, both parts have to be at the same temp before they "connect". Capiliary action will take the solder through the whole joint if its clean.
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:55 am

Well I figured I would give it one last go and this time I put heaps of flux on and it worked perfect, could see the solder getting sucked into the joint. Maybe that was the problem all along not enough flux and it was burning off before it got to temp.

Any way done 2 joints and holding well, The T pieces wont take the solder as I have punched them so they didnt come apart so I cant clean or flux inside the joint.

just prices some fittings and damn reece is expensive for them lol co op is almost half the price.

It isnt going to cost as much as I thought so thats good. Will get the fittings next week and place my order in AC/DC for the ferrules and clamps today I think :D
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Re: pot still design

Postby MacStill » Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:59 am

I like that bernzo flux, it's very forgiving and it's easy to clean up once the joint is done :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: pot still design

Postby kelbygreen » Sat Oct 13, 2012 10:17 am

just done a joint that looks like a pro done it nice and neat all the way around. Bet it was a fluke but still looks good haha
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