Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Ok so I didn't really have much left over from my vm/lm build but I managed to scrape this together. What's everyones thoughts on it working as a pot still, its on a 50l 2400w boiler 2"-2.5". If it goes ok I will get another longer piece of 2.5".

Could I do away with 1 piece, does it need to be a certain height?

I have never done any pot stilling but got myself 20l of molasses today and want to try my hand at a Mac Rum recipe.

A better picture. I know it's ugly but it's all I got atm. Do you think it should work ok enough?

If you want a proper pot still buy a couple of 90 degree bends and make a liebig condesner :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Should work as is .The riser on Pot still is only really there to give you enough height to put your jug unde.
It is true that a little bit of passive reflux will occur on a longer riser but its not really part of the design criteria.

The riser on my 2" pot is only 200 mm long .I haven't had tat many pukes with it but I doubtt if it was any higher that it woyld make mich difference as when a boiling pile of foam and froth gets funnelled from a keg size and forced up a narrow tube , it will continue until its out.

EDIT: Jusr double posted with Sam...yeah agree with Sam that a dedicated pot is best choice long term

It doesn`t need to be any taller. As Sam says, get a couple of 90 degre bends, connect to condenser and you`ll be right to go. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

It's all good just testing the waters with pot still first if all works out off to the scrap yard to get some more 2.5". I have been drinking cordial spirits for nearly 4 years now so might even stick to my neutrals not sure yet, but I did just order 1kg of oak staves so might try UJSSM after the rum or even the cornflakes whiskey.

sam_and_liv wrote:If you want a proper pot still buy a couple of 90 degree bends and make a liebig condesner :handgestures-thumbupleft:

This is sound advise, as is it will run like a hybrid and they are neither ya elbow or ya arsehole , flavour will strip but it will likely still smear enough to require double runs turning everything into a lightly flavoured vodka unless you bash the heat into it and then you'll have some fun getting full knock down and having foam ups and puking

This all sounds like best advice, the problem is that I can't really get anymore pipe for sometime so was thinking about it for a while and thought maybe 2.5" or 2" with elbow, reducer to 1" to threaded part so I can use my 2" shottie off my VM column.

What do you guys think that will work ok.

Pleased you are coming up with the good ideas :handgestures-thumbupleft: ...sounds perfect to me .

The shotty will work on an angle so with the threaded connection you can adjust for perfect angle required ..perhaps eventually you could swap out the thread for a 1" triclamp :handgestures-thumbupleft:( maybe I may take my good advice and do the same myself)

Hi
I've got a photo of mine here that might help. Pot stills can be pretty crude I think, well mine is I have just bent my copper pipe to the right angle straight off the riser. You can ignore the thumper I've got there, just go straight to the condenser. I think you will see what I mean.
Hope this helps.
Ps before anyone asks this is an old photo and I have replaced the dodgy rubber and stuff. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

i am always intrigued by what's hidden under a sheet! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Just the meth lab lol. Nah there was so much crap there you couldn't see the still.

flamehawk wrote:i am always intrigued by what's hidden under a sheet! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

It's a time machine, havn't you seen Back To The Future.

My plan from the start was to make it all pack up into a wooden box that I can lock for moving purposes as my job I get moved alot and something always seems to go missing, bit hard to explain what went missing to the insurance company. Trying to use little extra parts as possible is ideal.

One question I did forget to ask, does it make a difference what diameter my riser is if my boiler opening is 2", would it be a waste to go 2.5" elbow I have to buy the parts and 2" would be cheaper but I don't mind buying 2.5" if it's going to be faster.

Yep bigger diameter will mean quicker off take as long as you can provide the heat for it. The small restriction at the connection will have minimal effect, lots of people have bolted 4 inch pots and bubblers onto a 2 inch keg connection :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Hey mate had a quick read but not to sure if this has been suggested but..Your setup looks somewhat similar to mine. I haven’t tried this so someone might chime in and say this is a crap idea but….. As you have the ability to remove the VM ball valve can you join the condenser back on with a coupler? Then all you need to do is replace the boka head with a cap


(i just used a piece of flattened 2" to make the top)

and you have a very tall pot still.. You have one of 2 options then add an easy flange to shorten your old column or use the sections as you have pictured above..

Hope this makes sense and isn't a ridiculous idea 8-} 8-} Just going off your comment about trying to use little extra parts.

Sounds good C2H60 I do have a left over tee piece and end cap from my crossflow that didn't work out so I can use them. Now I only need 3 pieces to make it so I should have a pot stil for $30 or so. I can use the ball valve to join them as it's got a lock on it I think so it can be locked open.

I'd be removing the ball valve, Thomo... It only takes one lapse of judgement and you'll have a pressurized system full of fuel... No good. You just need another female-female joiner :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Zak Griffin wrote:I'd be removing the ball valve, Thomo... It only takes one lapse of judgement and you'll have a pressurized system full of fuel... No good. You just need another female-female joiner :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Yeah i though about doing the same thing but things are going to go very wrong if there is a mistake made.. However... a simple solve would be a hillbilly pressure release, if you drill a hole in the top of you cap and put a cork from a bottle of wine (natural cork) then this would act as a fail safe..

Just an idea :think: