Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hi guys

Im going to start building a 2" 2' SS pot still head to go on my keg i know that you need copper to remove some of the impuritys any segustions on how to do this i thought maybe a chamber with copper saddles inside or would having a copper leibig be enough any other ideas


Something along the lines of this
Cheers

Couple of reducers like this pic below will hold some copper packing loosely :handgestures-thumbupleft:



http://www.5stardistilling.net/4-modular-pot-still/

Dont need much, just enough for all the vapour to pass through

Cheers Macstill

ive got some 2" - 2.5" & 2.5" - 3" reducers layin around ( 2 of each).
theres no where for temp readings on these stills is it vital can one still be put on at the high side of the bend is there going to be enough liquid to get a good reading??
sorry bout the silly qs i just like to know

You'll notice that not many of us run a thermometer on a pot still mate! They're not needed and not really recommended...

benpandaae86 wrote:can one still be put on at the high side of the bend is there going to be enough liquid to get a good reading??
sorry bout the silly qs i just like to know

Like Zak said not really necessary for a thermo, just wanted to add that you want to be measuring vapour temp, not liquid temp ;-)

Im gonna build a leibig out of stainless steel that is
3/8 center tube (water)
3/4 product tube
1" outer skin (water)

if my pic makes sense

Are you basing this build on anything, or just winging it?

The pot still is based on what others have built but ive put my own twist on the leibig i worked with alfa laval for a couple of years and learnt a little about heat transfer and fluid dynamics just tryn to put extra surface area for more cooling in the end its about suface area and turbalance for more cooling effiancy

If you're worried about thermal efficiency and other such BS, why not build a shotty, that you can also use later on for a bubbler?

you wont have to worry about

"extra surface area for more cooling in the end its about suface area and turbalance for more cooling effiancy"

using a 2200w keg king element for too long :handgestures-thumbupleft:


Beware Brewshop Weldless Elements

I will be building a shotty to go on the modular i want to build but im tryn to knock something together quick to run this weekend and i had plenty of these pipes at work that needed liberating

This is my revised leibig condensor 1" outer water pipe 3/4" middle pipe (product) and 3/8 water pipe inside

Should be ok mate. SS is not as good at heat transfer as copper but it looks like it'll work.

How far is the column?

The new pot still it took me 2 nights to put together

With parrot

Inside the leibig it has a inner tube for cooling to increase surface area (i hope it works any way)

is the union after the 90 adjustable? You might have problems if you are collecting vertically

Yeah it can be on any angle just nip it up where its needed

I need to get some copper scrubberz to go in the chamber

Looks good mate, well done :handgestures-thumbupleft: and in quick time too.

I'm interested to hear how the condenser goes, it's a different design hope it works well for ya.

Just one other thing, i used those "milk fittings" or whatever their called, and i don't think the seals are alcohol tolerant so you may want to track down some epdm or silicon seals for them. I found them real hard to find and when i did, i recon they just told me they were epdm, i didn't really trust them so i did away with the fittings all together. Hope you have more luck.

When does she get her first run?

Yeah me to i hope it works im waiting on a 2200 watt element (i found out its the wrong one if i only had signed up to this forum sooner i wouldntve bourght a king) im goin to do a cleaning run as soon as whats better vineger or citric acid