Vm Still design

[vooharmy]

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I was originally going to have a still built as I was doubtful I could build it myself! After reading everyone's story of successes ( and failures :handgestures-thumbdown: ) I have decided to proceed! here is what I have come up with and I would be keen for any input or critique. At a later stage I would like to put in slant plates in the condenser head. A few things I am unsure of include:
1. Cutting the large reducers at the red line to give space for the 3" pipe and avoid a joiner, is this a good idea.
2. Is fixing the liebig in place against the column a good idea or should there be a union joint?
3. Are further reducers required throughout the column?
4. Is the column height sufficient?
5. are there any problems you can see?
6. How big should the condenser head be and how much space should I leave for the future installation of slant plates!

Your thoughts on any issues would be greatly appreciated.

[SBB]

Voo building your own is a good move, very satisfying when you finally run it and get the results you wanted. I think it also helps you to understand exactly whats going on inside your still and why it works the way it does.

[vooharmy]

I think its important too, but I don't even own a power drill :angry-banghead: There doesn't appear to be much required in the way of tools so hopefully I can fumble my way through with hundreds of dollars of copper :dance:

[googe]

Good stuff mate, good to see you steping up and giving it a go :handgestures-thumbupleft: , theres no reason you cant build something that works great and is just as good if not better than one you buy, its such a good feeling building your own!. I know bugger all about reflux stills so cant really advise you sorry. Im curious to know what you mean about cutting the reducer though?. All i can say is, take your time and research and take your time!!, ive learnt rushing builds turns to shit 9/10th of the time lol. Good luck.

[jim]

I am building a very similar design. However McStill advised me to use at least 3/4" (pref 1") for the takeoff. Otherwise your takeoff rates will not be as fast as they could be. 1/2" is a bit too small from what I understand.

Rather than install slant plates, flip your top reducer/focus ring upside down. the distillate will pool between the reducer and the wall of your column, where you can add a takeoff valve for removing the heads or LM. You can cut the reducer down or drill a hole in it to manage the depth of the pool.

Another modification I have included in mine is the addition of a barrel union after the gate valve. This will allow me to adjust the angle of the lyne arm so I can easily run it as a pot still by capping and not cooling the top condensor. I have a removable section of the column to make pot stilling more manageable.

I am going with a 3" to 2" reducer with an easyflange for the keg coupling.

Now, I haven't actually finished mine yet, and am no expert. This is just my first impressions from your design. I'm sure folks will let you know if Ive steered you wrong.

[vooharmy]

Jim thank you for your indepth reply it gives me some points for thought and I like the idea of inverting the reducer, should I install a tee to stop condensate from falling back through. My main reason for using the 1/2 take off is to share the liebig from my pot, but I guess there is no reason I cant make one.

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[vooharmy]

The reason I said about cutting the reducer was to aid in joining it without joiners.

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[vooharmy]

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I have been down to the local plumbing supplies store and played around with various fittings and I would like to eliminate brass from the construction. Based on the parts I found this is what I have come up with and it seems like it will fit together nicely. The thing I am most interested is is whether the design is good. I have looked into a union joint and in SS which is all I could find it seemed like a rather bulky item and I don't plan to use the still for anything other than neutral. I'm a little unsure of the dimensions for the liebig and would be open to any suggestions. If you click to make the image bigger you can see all the measurements and sizing Im thinking of using, it will be almost 100% as pictured. Thanks in advance for any help you might provide!

[vooharmy]

Any thoughts on inverting the top reducer and using a Tee to help trap distillate?

[vooharmy]

Guessing from everyones silence my design is perfect!

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[MacStill]

It does look good to me mate :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[vooharmy]

You recon I should be using a restricted tee instead? There is talk that it increases vapour velocity. I could go a 1.5" tee reducing into a 1" takeoff. I would go 1.5inch take off but the 1.5" gates are as expensive as poison!

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[Kimbo]

Hi Voo,there is no problem in reducing the take off diameter. and as you said, the parts are a lot cheaper. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[vooharmy]

Where does that leave the reduced tee? Part cost is similar so really whether its of benefit to go one way or the other is thr decider.

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[jim]

I think you can get away with omitting the top reducer, and inverting the bottom one to trap the distillate. That is the way Im building mine. That will save you some height, and better use the space inside the tee

[Sam.]

I think you can get away with omitting the top reducer, and inverting the bottom one to trap the distillate. That is the way Im building mine. That will save you some height, and better use the space inside the tee

I thought you want the vapor take off below the liquid takeoff. So that way it will slow down from the vapor takeoff when the hearts are being depleted. Can't remember the exact science but apparently that's the way it naturally goes.

[jim]

I think you can get away with omitting the top reducer, and inverting the bottom one to trap the distillate. That is the way Im building mine. That will save you some height, and better use the space inside the tee

I thought you want the vapor take off below the liquid takeoff. So that way it will slow down from the vapor takeoff when the hearts are being depleted. Can't remember the exact science but apparently that's the way it naturally goes.

From what I understand, you equalise the column for a while, then open up your LM valve to strip off the heads. Then you re-equalise, and run the VM for the hearts until the vapor stalls. If you are never running both the VM and the LM at the same time, I dont see why it matters which one is above the other.

A google search for VM/LM design returns at least two designs where the LM takeoff is below the VM.
However, I am very aware that just because people have done it, it doesnt mean that it is the best way to get it done. Does anyone know the VM theory well enough to tell me if the relative height of the takeoffs make a difference?

[vooharmy]

Started buying parts today, this is gonna hurt -)

[Sam.]

Jim you will find when you equalize the foreshots/heads will be at the top of the column being theist volatile components. That's prob the main reason to have the lm at the top

[vooharmy]

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Elements in place awaiting wiring =)
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