Jim's VM/LM build

[jim]

Hullo

I was going to build a 3" slant plate boka, but after a conversation with Mac, I was convinced that a VM still would be easier to run. Furthermore, it was a simple operation to add LM functionality.

I wanted future ability to use part of the column as a pot still, not at a cumbersome 1m above my boiler, so i broke the column into two roughly 500mm parts, with easy flanges and triclamps to hold it all together.

After some discussion about whether the LM valve should be above or below the VM valve, I went against Sam_and_Livs advice and put the LM valve below the VM valve. Mainly because I had already built a part I was proud of.

Pay no attention to the horrible, blobby solder jobs. None of the joints seem to leak (yet)

DSC_0189.JPG

DSC_0188.JPG

I put an easy flange around the bottom of a 3" to 1.5" reducer, and ran a short length of 1.5" pipe through the reducer. I cut a square hole through both sides of the tubing and capped it with a cut down 2" to 1.5" reducer and 1.5" cap. This is my LM trap and centering ring. I didnt want the distillate to get that deep, so I drilled a drain hole in it so that the drain tube would just barely be covered.

DSC_0187.JPG

This is the tee just after I soldered in the 1/4" drain tube. My MAPP gas had a very hard time heating up the tee, but when I surrounded it with bricks, it had a much easier time getting hot enough to melt the 2% silver solder. I purposely soldered this with a good bit of tube hanging inside the tee, then cut the hanging tube flush with the inside, and filed it smooth.

Next I soldered the liquid trap into the tee.

The positioning of the drain tube was my biggest mistake so far. I had it at a bit of an angle so that it would drain freely. However, it interferes with the triclamp, and pokes just a little bit too far down so that I cant rest the still head on a flat surface. Ive bent the tube up a little bit, and the tube now just barely fits through the gap at the hinge of the triclamp. The reason I put the drain there was because I wanted the sturdy tee above the flimsy drain to protect it from being bent and snapped off.

DSC_0205.JPG

My top condensor is a 2" coil of 1/4" tubing with a 1.5" cold finger. It is 300mm long. It rests in a brass threaded union, and is not soldered down. Next time Im in the shops I'll replace the brass with a normal copper sleeve union. However I doubt it matters, because the vapor shouldnt be getting that high up anyways.

DSC_0201.JPG

[jim]

DSC_0203.jpg

Remaining to do:
Solder the elbow on my lower condensor, after buying some more soft solder.
Find enough 1/4" tubing for a 2" easy flange to connect to the keg. I ran out after building the condensor.
Figure out how to attach a compression fitting to the 1/4" drain tube, so that I can thread on my LM needle valve.
Work out where the drain from my needle valve should go.

[Cane Toad]

Great job Jim :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[JayD]

Looking good... :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[vooharmy]

Great work jim! I love the modular design. I think I will put some more easy flanges in my design too. Looking at yours I like the option for easy storage.

A few questions,
Is that a brass gate valve?
Are the needle valves threaded?
Are you concerned that distilate will splash into your take off arm ?

Great job mate

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

[jim]

Great work jim! I love the modular design. I think I will put some more easy flanges in my design too. Looking at yours I like the option for easy storage.

A few questions,
Is that a brass gate valve?
Are the needle valves threaded?
Are you concerned that distilate will splash into your take off arm ?

Great job mate

Thanks Voo!

That is a brass gate valve, later on, if I feel like I have extra money, I will buy a SS one. There is also some brass threaded bushings going into the valves and barrel union. I'm not that worried about lead poisoning from brass.

The brass needle valve has a 3/8" threaded fitting. I have an adapter that is threaded on one side with a compression joint on the other. The compression fitting doesn't have an internal ring, and that has me a bit stuck, because I cannot get it to grip the 1/4" drain tube.

I will be installing the needle valve onto the end of the drain tube. From there I will run another tube... somewhere. I haven't worked it out, but I do not intend on leaving the distillate free to splash about.

[MacStill]

I think your LM set up is going to create turbulance at the VM take off area, this could dramatically decrease output through the VM.

See how it goes for now, but if you have any dramas you'll know where to look.

Cheers.

[vooharmy]

My local plumbing supplier has the internal copper compression rings you need. Im guessing yours will too.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

[googe]

Nice work Jim, you've got the grey matter working well :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Linny]

what type of torch did you use for the solder ??? would a butane torch get silver solder hot enough ???

[jim]

what type of torch did you use for the solder ??? would a butane torch get silver solder hot enough ???

I used a MAPP gas torch. I think a butane torch would be fine for any small parts, but highly doubt it would work for large parts. However, the higher the silver content of your solder, the lower the temperature you need, you might just get it hot enough with 16% silver solder. Someone who has actually used it would know better than me though. Im a cheapass and only use 2%.

Using bricks to surround your part will help keep the rest of your part from acting like a heat sink.

[crow]

what type of torch did you use for the solder ??? would a butane torch get silver solder hot enough ???

No butane wont, not 2 or 5% stuff anyways. The yellow bottled polypropylene gear should do the trick, so I'm told anyway

[jim]

Can you use a MAPP bottle with a propate torch tip?

[MacStill]

Can you use a MAPP bottle with a propate torch tip?

I've done it, it worked ok :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Linny]

ok gotta go shopping for a MAPP gas torch :handgestures-thumbupleft: i work in Avionics so i can solder well and make power temp controllers easy :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[jim]

I got my last fitting soldered in today and went to start my cleaning run. Turns out I soldered the easy flange around the outside of the female 2" coupling. My 2" triclamp doesn't fit around it. Now I'm screwed until I can find a 2" ferrule. :angry-banghead: :angry-banghead:

[Linny]

i dont get it , can u post a pic ?

[jim]

Problem already solved, sorry no pic. In short, if you want to use an easy flange for a keg coupling, you have to put the easy flange on a piece of 2" pipe, rather than on the female end of a 3" to 2" adaptor. If you put the easyflange on the adaptor, it wont fit the keg.

[MacStill]

you get steam running through it yet mate?

[jim]

I was kind of forbidden to run it after the little'un went to bed. So I kind of did it backwards. I assembled the column and still head, and closed the gate valve and needle valve. I triclamped on a 2" SS blank to the bottom, and filled it to the top with boiling water and CLR.

At least there's no leaks, and the little bit I can see from the top is already getting shiny.