Can some one check this

[Linny]

Been surfing ebay and masters/bunnings etc. trying to work out an easy way (without too much welding) ...suggestions. I dont really like going to a random weld shop and go can you weld this still please LOL

[crow]

why so short with the condenser ?

[Sam.]

I assume this a VM. Might want a gate valve instead of the ball valve for finer adjustment.

[emptyglass]

There's some detail missing from the top bit. The bit that says 300+mm.
There should be a condenser drawn in there, and a vent hole.

If it dosn't get a condenser penciled in, its a pot still with a valve.

Not being an expert on VM's tonight, I think there might be some missing details.

[MacStill]

I didn't choose my avitar!

you asked for one like mine, if you dont like it change it back

[emptyglass]

I didn't choose my avitar!

you asked for one like mine, if you dont like it change it back

you picked a better one than what I could.

I just have to apply some cream to it from time to time to stop chaffing.

[Linny]

why so short with the condenser ?

i thought the leibig had to be at least 400mm,,, what is the usual?

sorry i know i left out the main condenser , was more so focusing after the valve , probably should have said so

[vooharmy]

Those tees come in a 2x2x1 configuration.

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[vooharmy]

I would go a gate valve you can get 1" gate valve off ebay in 316 staino for $40 delivered. ball valves are more fiddly because a 180 revolution goes from closed to open. Gotta make like 20 with a gate valve. I was lucky with my build to find a cheap honest well stocked plumbing store. I have since moved and have had to go to the reece pirates once or twice. I would wait until after the gate valve to start reducing. Personally I would soft solder a 1" double hex nipple on the take off tee screw straight into the gate valve and screw the reducer into the other side of the gate valve and then soft solder a 1/2" double hex nipple on the liebig. If you have a look at my post you can see how I did it, Im pretty happy with the results.Dont really think you need 150mm barrell nipple, 75mm would be plenty. If you have any questions im more than happy to help where I can.

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[Linny]

thanks , had a look over it and it seems easier to go the 1" off the Tee. made my main condenser last week , turned out ok . Making the leibig condenser this weekend and will order the rest next week... pay day lol . then its just a waiting game i spose.

first photo is my madrels for the coil. i found it waaay easier if i had the tail through a pipe thats welded ,,, works as a handle and holds the pipe all in one go :handgestures-thumbupleft:

second photo is of my unadjusted coil .... yes i know its not even , but im getting there lol ....

[Linny]

Just a update, still have to solder , but will worry about that later once i have everything together. also straightened the condenser and is sitting in vinegar

[MacStill]

Looking good Linny :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Linny]

Thanks. I figured if I polished it before it goes together than it will be easier once it's all finished. I think it's going to be a little while before everything comes together.

[Linny]

Heres a Update with the condenser soldered together , got it flowed first time , but made a mess with the solder . pretty happy with the soft solder since i pressurised it with water and it still held together :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Yes i know that is a brass compression, but ive got a SS one on the way and i just wanted it together , i also cut a copper collar inside of it and wrapped it in teflon tape , so theres no actual brass in contact.

[Kimbo]

Well done mate, you will be building a bubbler in no time :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Linny]

Well Update... with the keg ready , condenser and valve sitting there .... my next door neighbor rocks up with a 2" pipe..about 1 m long.... well its not long enough for a VM , but might aswell make a pot head.... can always make a VM column later ,,,, this will definately get me through xmas , plus my main interest at the moment is AG and going to have a crack at McRUM :happy-partydance: .... now because ive been waiting so long , i havent had anything on the ferment except for 18L of DWWG.... time to start laying down some washes ! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Its nothing special and it hasnt been cleaned up ,,, still have to die grind the column out since i justgot it welded to the spear thread and the column head is 650mm . But now i need tips for running ,,,, on a run ditch 150mm fores ,,, and run the strip run via the heat ? about to start reading .... since im coming from a 5L hobby im guessing its not too different

[Aussiedownunder01]

First i would take the valve out of the thing axeadentley turn it off and you will blow your bloody head off

[emptyglass]

Yeah, what aussie said. You have made yourself a potential bomb. A still needs to be vented, always.

Not sure about the "welded to the spear thread". What's happening there? Cant see too much from the pics.

Other than that, it should make for a good rig. You might want to kick the condenser away from vertical, or it might pass vapor.

Should make a good rum.

[MacStill]

First i would take the valve out of the thing axeadentley turn it off and you will blow your bloody head off

Agreed :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Linny]

thanks guys .... :handgestures-thumbupleft:
from the valve to the condenser was originally for a VM.... i spose i got impatient lol, but i will go get a coupler to replace the valve before running it. and i was always going to kick the end of the condenser outwards thats why there is extra length on it. i had always planned to build a pot head and a VM , i guess i wanted the VM first but i got that small pipe for free