by woodduck » Tue Aug 26, 2014 7:33 pm
Ok, so it sounds like there's a bit of interest in how I do things, so I thought I might put together a few ideas/tips on how I made my bits and pieces. I'm no great metal worker by any means so don't take my word as gospel and please remember this is just a guide, the way I did things, so use your own digression on what you deem safe or nessasery.
I'm pretty lucky I have access to some good tools but you will be suprized at what you can do with what you have. I haven't used too many flash tools so far, mainly a grinder and a drill press but you could get away with a hand drill if you wanted. Also just a assortment of hand tools like files, sand paper, tin snips and a hammer etc. You just need to think outside the box.
I was too tight to buy all the end caps from the plumbing joint so I cut all my pipe to length with a dodgy old pipe cutter that was better at cutting a thread than pipe :)) I then flattened out some pipe or sheet copper and soft soldered the pipe to it to form the cap (there are photos below) then cut the top out with tin snips, don't worry the tin snips will cutt the soft solder no probs. I then found a bit of hose that fit inside the cap nice and tight, jammed a drill inside the hose put it in the drill and sanded/polished it like that. On my bigger caps I used a hole saw that was smaller than the cap and wrapped tape around it till it was a tight fit. The same went for my downcomer tubes I just used a hose over a drill bit, it doesn't have to be rock solid just tight enough for the rubber to grip. Please remember safety first though, I used low speeds, very little pressure and a sanding block is a good idea. Watch your fingers!!!!
I won't go into cutting the slots that's been covered earlier.
The plates I cut out of flattened 2" pipe with tin snips (this can take a while unless you have hands like a gorilla), I don't think you need hard plate because by the time you solder everything the plate ends up annealed anyway (just my thoughts some my disagree), only benefit I see is that the plate won't have hammer marks in it. Btw I used a dead blow hammer, rubber one that doesn't bounce. I then clamped all the plates together and drilled the center hole. I then used this hole to bolt them together and used "macs easy lathe" to get them the same size. I then drilled one of the smaller holes and used a bolt in that to stop everything moving and then just drilled the plates all stacked together. I found the plates did spread and bulge a bit but it didn't seem to hurt anything, I just reflattened them (sorry I don't think that is even a word but you get what I mean).
To clean the plates up I used a short bit of hose through the center hole then compressed it with the nut and bolt to make it firm then as before banged it in the drill press and sanded away.
With my downcomer tubes I did use an expanding tool to flare the ends so you might have to get a plumber mate to help you there or I think this was discussed in bourbon junkies build thread, anyway you should be able to work this out.
Well I think this and my previous posts just about covers it. I hope this wasn't too long winded. I am more than happy to explain anything else you might want to know.
Just one more thing, for those of you that haven't used a de-burrer before, I can tell you they are the ducks nuts for getting the burr out of the inside of the pipe, just stick it in and round you go (get your mind out of the gutter :laughing-rolling: ). There is a photo further down. From memory I got it from a welding supplies place and I don't think it was too expensive, only 10- $20 and makes life alot easier.
Hope this helps and good luck
Ps I can't get all photos on one post so theres another coming. And what a pain in the arse getting them in order :angry-banghead: I really need to learn how to work this thing.
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