WTDist wrote:good read. whats the left one for with the number and g ie 9g? grams?
Thelegion wrote:I have also stopped using citric acid and any tomatoe paste and the results are the same.
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WTDist wrote:Thelegion wrote:I have also stopped using citric acid and any tomatoe paste and the results are the same.
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what wash ingredients do you use?
Thelegion wrote:This is all very interesting, I have used fleishmans bread yeast and seems to impart a rather nice taste in he end product. I have now switched to red star bakers at about $5 a pound and does a really nice job as well. My sugar washes are generally 30 ltrs or bigger, I am slowly using less and less yeast to get the job done but really not sure if I'm over yeasting. I roughly use 1cup of yeast that I pre start after the wash cools to about 35c and mix and aerate well. I have noticed that 99% of the washes finish in a full week and you can almost set your watch to them, my s gravity is always between 1.08-09 and I don't deviate from that.
So am I or how do I know if I'm over yeasting.? I have also stopped using citric acid and any tomatoe paste and the results are the same. Does anyone follow a general rule for bakers yeasts.?
Cheers. TL....
WTDist wrote:Thelegion wrote:I have also stopped using citric acid and any tomatoe paste and the results are the same.
.
what wash ingredients do you use?
jacobraven wrote::text-+1:WTDist wrote:Thelegion wrote:I have also stopped using citric acid and any tomatoe paste and the results are the same.
.
what wash ingredients do you use?
hoochlover wrote:WTDist wrote:Thelegion wrote:I have also stopped using citric acid and any tomatoe paste and the results are the same.
.
what wash ingredients do you use?
You will need tomato paste (or some other nutrient) if you start with low amounts of yeast like usually recommended in those wash guides. You can't use the same low amount of yeast, remove the nutrients and expect same or better results. You can only throw away the tomato paste if you up the yeast. It's a simple concept, the more yeast you put in the less reproduction needs to occur to consume the sugar. Also dried yeast contains dead yeast which is a nutrient for the live ones. This is why with enough dried yeast you need nothing else except epsom salts to produce a fast result.
It's also possible some other nutrients will speed things up even more, like zinc/trace elements. But again the dried yeast already has many of these which is why epsom salts alone seems to make such a large difference . Just don't go changing tried and true wash guides by removing ingredients and not substituting something else in its place. If you see any pitch guide that's under 200g of yeast for 25L you need a nitrogen supplementation, other nutrients too, and proper oxygenation of the wash.
Thelegion wrote:One thing worth noting is that from what I have read, a slower, gentle ferment is optimal for a quality end product.
Thelegion wrote: I personally am not trying maximize high alcohol content washes and prefer a slower gentler approach to my distilling enjoyment. I would try a bakers type yeast on anything I made and second try the commercial specific yeasts for say a whiskey and then compare the two. I personally strive to make a unique product and not to copy the commercial folks, I don't want to load my solutions up with testosterone like ingredients to boost alcohol content later to have to use a carbon filter to make it palatable, hey but that's just me.
I think different yeasts have their product specific places and experimentation with them is like building a new still, it's a great adventure. I'm sure I'll be on the hunt for some rum specific yeast sooner than later, it's all part of the evolution of the craft.
hoochlover wrote:For anyone interested, the makeup of lowans instant dried.
Saccharomyces cerevisiae > 98.5 %
Emulsifier : sorbitan monostearate (E491) < 1.5 %
Contains no other chemical additive.
I'm doing an investigation into what effect this E491 is having on the fermentation. My initial feeling is its colouring the wash a yellowish tinge. I only noticed because the more dried yeast I dump in the more yellow it gets. I used to think this was just how the end product of a wash looked. It's also possible the dead yeast cells present in the dried yeast are contributing this yellowing tinge, I can't be certain yet. But it's there before any additives are added so it's definitely coming from the dried yeast contents.
It could certainly be contributing to the yeast itself increasing toxin count in which case it would be advisable you "Wash" Your dried yeast before using it. I think for anything I drink from dried yeast from now on this is what is going to happen because whether it's dead cells or E491 it's nothing you want in your wash. I'll see if it has any impact on performance.
Whiskyaugogo wrote:You will find most commercial yeasts use E491 as the emulsifier. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Whiskyaugogo wrote:How do you "wash" a dried yeast? :think:
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