Professor Green wrote: I'm not a still builder so this is purely based on my own logical reasoning but I think the main reason the tee is put to the middle rather than offset to towards the bottom is probably for triclamp clearance so I can't see why you couldn't mount them lower if you have the clearance to do so. For what it's worth, I have no problem seeing the plate action on my neutraliser which has the sights mounted in the middle but your tees look like they're slightly taller so that might have an impact on your plate visibility.
Cheers,
Prof. Green.
Commercial builders would want to only use as much stainless as needed plus longer Tees makes a taller still. You show 4 Tees in the photo, are you going to go 5 high? Then add your RC, reducer and elbows or block head makes for a very tall still. Looks like you have the head room for it, (just don't get a nose bleed climbing the ladder when assembling :laughing-rolling: ). Once you hang your PC and parrot on it the taller it is, the more likely to tip I would think. Maybe add some feet to the keg for stability? Make a longer downcomer so the PC is at a reasonable height to lower the centre of gravity and the parrot is coming to a reasonable height. If you look at the FSD packed section kit so you can do neutrals on a bubbler, they also sell a 3/4 inch piece to bring the parrot back to same position but the FSD Neutraliser does it better I think with a 2 inch extension before the PC. Makes it easier to get to your water connections and many put their flow control valves at the bottom of the PC and RC.
I think it is a wise move to cut all your pieces and lay it out before welding so you get all the detail right and weld once.
I wish you good luck I can only look on with envy as for me buying is my only real option. :handgestures-thumbupleft: