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by Clubby » Sun Apr 23, 2017 6:16 pm
Professor Green wrote:I would be concerned about those screw terminals on the back. The possibility for live wires working their way lose or breaking off is very real as there is no strain relief for the cables.
Cheers,
Prof. Green.
Good point Professor. Think i will make a plate up and replace the wire using glands.
Would adding and earth be, just connecting the two earth wires (in and out) with a bolt on the box. Going to get it all tested before use. But would like to finish it myself, if possible.
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Clubby
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- Posts: 54
- Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2016 5:51 pm
- Location: Gold Coast Hinterland
- equipment: FSD 50L milk can boiler, Neutralizer 5 plate, blockhead tee and a Gin Caddy. 2 x 2400 elements.
Turbo 500, an old 2" pot, too suit a T500 boiler collecting dust
by rumdidlydum » Sun Apr 23, 2017 6:53 pm
Yes. Join the two earths and make sure all metal enclosures/parts are eathed :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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rumdidlydum
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- Location: CQ
- equipment: The infamous Illuminated chicken leg boiler, Rum glass and other bits and bobs
by Professor Green » Sun Apr 23, 2017 7:19 pm
Looks like the case is powder coated, you might need to srape some of the powder coating of around the earth hole to make sure you get a good electrical connection.
Cheers,
Prof. Green.
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Professor Green
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- Posts: 2488
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- Location: Victoria
- equipment: FSD 100 litre milk can with 2 x 2400W elements
FSD Neutraliser
FSD Carter Head
12 litre double boiler with 2400W element
by rumdidlydum » Sun Apr 23, 2017 7:39 pm
:text-+1:
And use "shake proof washers" or "star washers"
Diferent names, same thing :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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rumdidlydum
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- equipment: The infamous Illuminated chicken leg boiler, Rum glass and other bits and bobs
by scythe » Tue Apr 25, 2017 8:02 am
I will second the concern about live wires breaking away from screw terminals.
Just yesterday the vehicle hoist at work was not working properly, after a bit of investigation it turns out that not only did someone smash the limit switch at the top of the stroke but this was because a wire had broken off inside the control box and it was not receiving the stop signal to then engage the locks.
And this happened inside a box that does not get moved around and is exposed to no vibration or pulling.
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scythe
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- Location: Central West NSW
- equipment: Dreaming of a 4" bubbler
by nosey » Tue Apr 25, 2017 12:06 pm
Picked up to run a 2200 w heating element easy to connect up
Last edited by
Doubleuj on Tue Apr 25, 2017 12:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Removed advertising link
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nosey
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sun Mar 19, 2017 11:30 am
- Location: victoria
- equipment: homebuilt 50lt keg modified with tri clover 2" fittings 2200 watt heat element
by Plumby » Tue Apr 25, 2017 12:12 pm
I brought the 4000watt version with fan off eBay. It works well, I put mine in a box with a safety switch for added protection.
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Plumby
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- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2014 7:19 am
- Location: South East Queensland
- equipment: 50 litre keg boiler with a 2200watt element and a 2 inch pot still called Shaniqua with a 32mm over 19mm 800mm long liebig condenser attached.
by Triangle » Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:42 pm
Good points made by Prof. Green.
From my experience......that Chint CB has to go for something better quality. I end up replacing these all the time among a couple of brands.
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Triangle
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- Location: Adelaide
- equipment: To be anounced!
by Amfamora » Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:30 pm
I took PeterC's advice and received some IEC C19 and C20 plugs and sockets today for the power cables from RS Components.
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Amfamora
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- Posts: 56
- Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2016 5:23 pm
- Location: Lockyer Valley, QLD
- equipment: T500 Pot and Reflux :/
50l Keg Boiler
4" Bubbler
by Lowie » Thu May 04, 2017 2:33 pm
Finalllly got around to getting mine out of the box last night. I attached a 240v plug socket to the back of the box and re-routed the power out cables to the socket. Fired it up with my boiler, all good :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Lowie
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- equipment: 4", 4 plate "Frankenfurter" copper bubbler and blockhead on a 50L 3000W electric boiler, 10000W controller - don't even know why I need that much, all grain HERMS system through 18G HLT keg and 50L mash tun.
by Lowie » Fri May 05, 2017 8:31 am
Here's a pic of the mod. I've ordered the other plug and socket as per Amfarmoras suggestion :handgestures-thumbupleft:
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Lowie
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- equipment: 4", 4 plate "Frankenfurter" copper bubbler and blockhead on a 50L 3000W electric boiler, 10000W controller - don't even know why I need that much, all grain HERMS system through 18G HLT keg and 50L mash tun.
by Amfamora » Wed May 10, 2017 5:34 pm
Received my controller today but it is not working correctly. On regulates voltage between approx 200 - 240v. Wont go below 200 volts tested with a multimeter :angry-banghead:
Possible its a bung potentiometer that needs replacing? Anyone else have theirs go below 200v?
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Amfamora
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- Posts: 56
- Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2016 5:23 pm
- Location: Lockyer Valley, QLD
- equipment: T500 Pot and Reflux :/
50l Keg Boiler
4" Bubbler
by Amfamora » Wed May 10, 2017 5:58 pm
Well Im a goose.
Works fine if you have the element plugged in. I was only bench testing it :)
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Amfamora
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- Posts: 56
- Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2016 5:23 pm
- Location: Lockyer Valley, QLD
- equipment: T500 Pot and Reflux :/
50l Keg Boiler
4" Bubbler
by Lowie » Wed May 10, 2017 8:09 pm
Sure you were... :shhh:
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Lowie
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- Posts: 712
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2015 1:32 pm
- Location: Crow eater
- equipment: 4", 4 plate "Frankenfurter" copper bubbler and blockhead on a 50L 3000W electric boiler, 10000W controller - don't even know why I need that much, all grain HERMS system through 18G HLT keg and 50L mash tun.
by Lowie » Fri May 12, 2017 10:04 pm
I've been running my bubbler tonight on a vinegar run. My shed smells like a chip shop and I've found a few leaks with steam coming out of some connections which is a good thing I suppose before the sac run. I'm running a 3000w element on a 10a circuit and through trial and error (overloading the circuit breaker and stumbling around in the dark) I've found that my control box runs ok set at 150-160V. All good with this controller so far, it's not even getting hot. Good enough to keep the boiler going. I'm in the process of getting a 30A upgrade to the shed :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Lowie
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- Posts: 712
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2015 1:32 pm
- Location: Crow eater
- equipment: 4", 4 plate "Frankenfurter" copper bubbler and blockhead on a 50L 3000W electric boiler, 10000W controller - don't even know why I need that much, all grain HERMS system through 18G HLT keg and 50L mash tun.
by warramungas » Sat May 13, 2017 2:53 am
If you do get the power upgraded to handle 3000 watts just make sure all the connections and wiring for your box and boiler are up to the job. I run a 10000 watt box but all the wiring is only 10 amp so max is 2400 watts element.
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warramungas
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- equipment: 180 litre fermenter x 2
30 liter boiler
PDA-1
2" four plate modular bubbler
2" one meter long LM column
110 liter boiler with 25 liter (max) inline thumper
4" x 4 plate bubble cap still
by Lowie » Fri May 26, 2017 4:11 pm
Blew the fuse this arvo early on in my second run. No spare fuses so pulled the lid off an bypassed the fuse. I figure I'm running a Clipsal safety switch at the main so don't need one anyway. Right or wrong? :think:
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Lowie
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- Posts: 712
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2015 1:32 pm
- Location: Crow eater
- equipment: 4", 4 plate "Frankenfurter" copper bubbler and blockhead on a 50L 3000W electric boiler, 10000W controller - don't even know why I need that much, all grain HERMS system through 18G HLT keg and 50L mash tun.
by Plumby » Fri May 26, 2017 4:30 pm
I'm no rocket surgeon man but that sounds like a bad idea.
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Plumby
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- Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2014 7:19 am
- Location: South East Queensland
- equipment: 50 litre keg boiler with a 2200watt element and a 2 inch pot still called Shaniqua with a 32mm over 19mm 800mm long liebig condenser attached.
by Triangle » Fri May 26, 2017 6:24 pm
Lowie wrote:Blew the fuse this arvo early on in my second run. No spare fuses so pulled the lid off an bypassed the fuse. I figure I'm running a Clipsal safety switch at the main so don't need one anyway. Right or wrong? :think:
Fuses in equipment are designed to either protect the wiring or components in that equipment, depending on the type of fuse.
The safety switch is to protect against an active to earth (or neutral to earth as does occur) condition. It won't protect against an active to neutral fault or an overloaded circuit unless the condition has become so drastic the insulation has broken down and produced a fault to earth.
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Triangle
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- equipment: To be anounced!
by Buzz » Fri May 26, 2017 7:42 pm
Lowie wrote:Blew the fuse this arvo early on in my second run. No spare fuses so pulled the lid off an bypassed the fuse. I figure I'm running a Clipsal safety switch at the main so don't need one anyway. Right or wrong? :think:
The fuse is the protection for that individual circuit and is there to prevent any part of that circuit from catching on fire. Even if the saftey switch is connected to that circuit it will do nothing to prevent a circuit overheating and catching on fire without the fuse or circuit breaker. Fusewire packs cost less than $10.00 and everyone with fuses should have one in their switchboard.
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Buzz
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- Joined: Mon May 08, 2017 10:08 am
- Location: Central Ranges NSW
- equipment: FSD 4" pot with work started on a keg boiler
and a 20 year old Spirits Unlimited aluminium pot still
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