equipment: 4 plate 6" copper bubbler, 6 plate 4" glass bubbler with 500mm packed section three way thumper sitting on a 50 ltr keg boiler with 6000watts, 2" pot still and a 2" boka.
Sorry mate I'm still not sure, does it have plastic bits that might get too hot if your running fast or without packing? If not then I would remove the packing for stripping. Do you have a power controller?
equipment: 4 plate 6" copper bubbler, 6 plate 4" glass bubbler with 500mm packed section three way thumper sitting on a 50 ltr keg boiler with 6000watts, 2" pot still and a 2" boka.
In that case you should be able to strip without your packing and run pretty hard as long as your condencer/s can keep up and your output alc doesn't get too hot.
equipment: 4 plate 6" copper bubbler, 6 plate 4" glass bubbler with 500mm packed section three way thumper sitting on a 50 ltr keg boiler with 6000watts, 2" pot still and a 2" boka.
woodduck wrote:In that case you should be able to strip without your packing and run pretty hard as long as your condencer/s can keep up and your output alc doesn't get too hot.
One more question - which of the materials, copper or 316 SS, makes the best condenser, coil for coil. Not looking for options on taste, just heat exchange efficiencies.
equipment: 4 plate 6" copper bubbler, 6 plate 4" glass bubbler with 500mm packed section three way thumper sitting on a 50 ltr keg boiler with 6000watts, 2" pot still and a 2" boka.
Stainless will resist temp change, which is both good and bad. Once its cold it will stay colder for longer as its the cold metal that condenses the vapour this might help your cooling water stay colder for longer during a run.
But getting it cold will take longer.
How much it matters to us at a hobby level remains to be seen.