hillzabilly wrote:What ever you use make sure all joins a super clean befor ya start the torch,I allways use a bit off emery paper to clean and slightly roughen the area,then wipe down with metho and go for it with a soft slightly oxidizeing flame(the blue cone just after the end of the tip should not be to small but longer with a slightly feathered edge) took me a shit load of practice to get confident so go slow and gentle,with stainless if you overheat it will oxidise and the brazeing will not stick then you will have ta sand it to fresh metal and try again,so only use enough heat ta get the braze ta run .cheers hillzabilly :handgestures-thumbupleft:
ThePaterPiper wrote:hillzabilly wrote:What ever you use make sure all joins a super clean befor ya start the torch,I allways use a bit off emery paper to clean and slightly roughen the area,then wipe down with metho and go for it with a soft slightly oxidizeing flame(the blue cone just after the end of the tip should not be to small but longer with a slightly feathered edge) took me a shit load of practice to get confident so go slow and gentle,with stainless if you overheat it will oxidise and the brazeing will not stick then you will have ta sand it to fresh metal and try again,so only use enough heat ta get the braze ta run .cheers hillzabilly :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Is that with Mapp gas Hillzabilly?
bluc wrote:I have been wondering about that hilzabilly. I always thought higher silver was higher melting point..
Sam. wrote:I was under the impression the higher the silver content the better it flows into the joint and why they are more expensive :-B
YarraRanges wrote:I use LP gas with oxygen for brazing stainless to copper. I've found that 45% silver works well for brazing stainless ferrules to copper. To do this you must use Tenacity No.6 flux. It can be bought on order from Blackwoods or BOC for around $80.
Tri-clamps are made from Austenitic stainless steel. Austenitic stainless steels are non-magnetic. The Austenitic steels are based on the 18% chromium 8% nickel composition although the chromium addition can vary from 15-22% and the nickel from 6-11%. Austenitic steels if heated between 55O °C and 750 °C will precipitate complex Chromium Carbide which makes standard fluxes useless and the silver braze won't stick. Tenacity No.6 can cope with this.
The only problem is that you need caustic soda or mechanical means to remove the residue after it has cooled.
Sam. wrote:
Firstly a post in the welcome section would be awesome :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Secondly, are you saying Austenitic as a fancy version of 300 series grade stainless? :think:
Wouldn't build a still out of anything less than 304 personally ;-)
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