warramungas wrote:I run a 1/2" needle valve on my RC and 1/2" ball valve on my PC. The ball valve is just to increase system pressure a little bit so all the water doesn't go straight through the PC. I'm not interested in flow rate through the PC and think the more the merrier (within reason as I don't recirculate).
My 1/2" needle valve fully open on the RC lets through way more water then I would require at any given time (except full reflux).
PeterC wrote:warramungas wrote:I run a 1/2" needle valve on my RC and 1/2" ball valve on my PC. The ball valve is just to increase system pressure a little bit so all the water doesn't go straight through the PC. I'm not interested in flow rate through the PC and think the more the merrier (within reason as I don't recirculate).
My 1/2" needle valve fully open on the RC lets through way more water then I would require at any given time (except full reflux).
:text-+1:
I have to have a needle valve on the RC and its just open half a turn when I am collecting. A bit more in summer when the cooling water is higher temperature. Half a turn more and I am on full reflux. This gives me very fine control of the collection rate, not easy to duplicate on a ball valve or gate valve.
The Stig wrote:I’ll drink to that :obscene-drinkingchug:
Ned wrote:PeterC wrote:warramungas wrote:I run a 1/2" needle valve on my RC and 1/2" ball valve on my PC. The ball valve is just to increase system pressure a little bit so all the water doesn't go straight through the PC. I'm not interested in flow rate through the PC and think the more the merrier (within reason as I don't recirculate).
My 1/2" needle valve fully open on the RC lets through way more water then I would require at any given time (except full reflux).
:text-+1:
I have to have a needle valve on the RC and its just open half a turn when I am collecting. A bit more in summer when the cooling water is higher temperature. Half a turn more and I am on full reflux. This gives me very fine control of the collection rate, not easy to duplicate on a ball valve or gate valve.
Thats what I am trying to get my head around :angry-banghead:
What do you use for deliverying your water pump or mains pressure ?
If a pump do you know the litres per minute ?
:text-thankyoublue:
PeterC wrote:Ned wrote:PeterC wrote:warramungas wrote:I run a 1/2" needle valve on my RC and 1/2" ball valve on my PC. The ball valve is just to increase system pressure a little bit so all the water doesn't go straight through the PC. I'm not interested in flow rate through the PC and think the more the merrier (within reason as I don't recirculate).
My 1/2" needle valve fully open on the RC lets through way more water then I would require at any given time (except full reflux).
:text-+1:
I have to have a needle valve on the RC and its just open half a turn when I am collecting. A bit more in summer when the cooling water is higher temperature. Half a turn more and I am on full reflux. This gives me very fine control of the collection rate, not easy to duplicate on a ball valve or gate valve.
Thats what I am trying to get my head around :angry-banghead:
What do you use for deliverying your water pump or mains pressure ?
If a pump do you know the litres per minute ?
:text-thankyoublue:
I use a pump similar to the one Stig linked to from Bunnings, submersible with a 1" take off in a 1000L IBC. I use 1/2" garden hose, click on adaptors and us a "Y" adaptor to split into 2 lines just after the pump. One line goes to the PC which has a 1/2" ball valve which is usually fully open. The other goes to my RC with a needle valve. I put a electrical tie on the needle valve handle so I can see the needle valve position. I run the return lines back to the IBC and the one from the RC I put in a clamp above the IBC so I can see the return flow. I like the flow meters some people use but watching the rate the hot water dribbles out is a great indicator. It is a fairly low flow. (I used to be able to pee that fast when I was younger, but not anymore :violin: )
In summer the IBC water warms up over time, I can do 2 50L strips in a day without problems and a another the next day. I have a copper heat exchanger from a gas water heater and was thinking to run the return water through it with a cooling fan but have not had the need as yet. It is good fun isn't it!
RC Al wrote:It would be easier and cheaper to run a direct return line
Depending on configuration, you can be returning water at 70+ degrees
Matt_Pl wrote:I had the exact same setup on my bubbler when I purchased it a few years ago from Mac.
The braded lines and Bunnings gate valves. I thought it was running sweet until I post a couple of weeks ago regarding running the bubbler with 4 plates and trying for rum/UJSSM. It was running like a pot still.
My cooling setup is a cheap 350w Bunnings submersible pump in a 1000litre IBC.
Considering I live in Darwin my cooling water starts at 32.5oC and my return water was 36oC I struggled to knock down one element at 2400w and I struggled to properly control the reflux levels (it was either too fast or too slow)
I replaced the braded lines with 19mm irrigation hose and 15m BSP to barbed fittings. The water flow doubled through the RC and PC, the internal diameter of those lines is very small.
I also replaced my RC gate valve with a needle valve from trade link.
Holy Jesus I feel like I have more control than Buzz did when he landed on the moonshine and I’m now kicking myself for not buying a needle valve on my RC years ago.
Either way good luck mate!!
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