BigRig wrote:You dont run a boiler by temperature, the wash will boil at its own temperature and will change throughout the run as the alc is diminshed. You also don't measure the water temperature of the condensor like you did with the t500. On those type boilers i would set the boiler temp to 105c.
You really need a power controller to run that thing properly so you can adjust power accordingly. The more power input the more vigorous the boil, the more vigorous the boil the more likely you are to get smearing.
Proper cuts with a bubbler and you won't need to filter.
The Stig wrote:Thanks Ben , I’m so over telling people you can’t run a still by temp ^:)^
Justillit wrote:BigRig wrote:You dont run a boiler by temperature, the wash will boil at its own temperature and will change throughout the run as the alc is diminshed. You also don't measure the water temperature of the condensor like you did with the t500. On those type boilers i would set the boiler temp to 105c.
You really need a power controller to run that thing properly so you can adjust power accordingly. The more power input the more vigorous the boil, the more vigorous the boil the more likely you are to get smearing.
Proper cuts with a bubbler and you won't need to filter.
Thanks Big Rig, so have I understood,
Thermometer on the Boiler lid should be around 105c, then on the dephlegmator I will look for 85-97c and then 63-68 for shot gun?
Sorry for dumb question.
Dont ask, dont learn.
Better to ask and be assumed a fool for 1 hour or never ask and be proven a fool forever!
Thank you again!
BigRig wrote:This video might also help with running a bubbler too viewtopic.php?f=36&t=12181&hilit=Woodduck
BigRig wrote:Justillit wrote:BigRig wrote:You dont run a boiler by temperature, the wash will boil at its own temperature and will change throughout the run as the alc is diminshed. You also don't measure the water temperature of the condensor like you did with the t500. On those type boilers i would set the boiler temp to 105c.
You really need a power controller to run that thing properly so you can adjust power accordingly. The more power input the more vigorous the boil, the more vigorous the boil the more likely you are to get smearing.
Proper cuts with a bubbler and you won't need to filter.
Thanks Big Rig, so have I understood,
Thermometer on the Boiler lid should be around 105c, then on the dephlegmator I will look for 85-97c and then 63-68 for shot gun?
Sorry for dumb question.
Dont ask, dont learn.
Better to ask and be assumed a fool for 1 hour or never ask and be proven a fool forever!
Thank you again!
On the boiler, the black dial down the bottom, Is that a thermostat? What i am saying is put it to an unachievable temp like 105c so it will never cycle on/off, you want a constant rolling boil not a stop/start boil.
If u get a power controller you can have the rolling boil and adjust the intensity as needed.
Ignore all other thermometers as they will only confuse you.
I am by no means calling you dumb, but simplified running a bubbler is heating the boiler with the defleg on full, when the plates load up with liquid slowly close the defleg until you get slow drips. Collect the drips for your fores cut and discard, close the defleg tap a little more until you get a slow steady stream, collect in 200ml cuts and let them air overnight before diluting, tasting and testing your product.
You do it all without looking at the temps. Every wash is different so you cannot determine what the boiling point will be, it will just be what it will be.
The Stig wrote:Still becomes an issue , same as the 65L digiboil , the electronics dont play nice when connected to a controller unless modified to separate the power cords to each element and bypassing the electronics .
Loads of messing about .
And, I don’t get how they can advertise a non 10amp product as 10amp ???
Surely if you plugged this into a standard 10am circuit it would blow the safety switch ??
I’m no electrician but something doesn’t seem right
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 51 guests