Brass element ferrule in keg

by **Gribble** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 9:56 pm

Ive got a brass 1" bsp element ferrule to go into my 50l keg. Basic plan is to holesaw and silver solder it in. Seems simple enough.

Any problems i might have overlooked here? Is brass going to taint the brew? Any electrolosis issues?

I know about lead free solder, so thats a good start.

by **crow** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:21 pm

Well there's brass and then there's brass. Some brass made for potable water is almost lead free and some not made for drinking water or made a long time ago or overseas maybe relativity high in lead. of cause you have to take into account that it is in your boiler not the vapor path and even if it had a high lead content the lead would be extremely unlikely to find its way into your spirit . So I would say no there is no problem with it other views may differ ;-)

by **kelbygreen** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 10:52 pm

from HB site.

Cleaning Brass
Some brewers use brass fittings in conjunction with their wort chillers or other brewing equipment and are concerned about the lead that is present in brass alloys. A solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide (common 3% solution) will remove tarnish and surface lead from brass parts when they are soaked for 5 minutes or less at room temperature. The brass will turn a buttery yellow color as it is cleaned. If the solution starts to turn green and the brass darkens, then the parts have been soaking too long and the copper in the brass is beginning to dissolve, exposing more lead. The solution has become contaminated and the part should be re-cleaned in a fresh solution.

by **Gribble** » Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:35 pm

Is pickling necessary if its in the boiler? Then again it might just be a case of better safe than get lead poisioning and have kids with 11 fingers. Im not sure what the intention of this particular ferrule is so I dont know if its for potable water or not.

From a more scientific point of view. Lets say the brew gets a bit of lead in it, its boiling point is around 1700degC, so chances are unless your boiling the mix directly with an oxy torch its not going to make it up into the vapour and into the heads, hearts or even the tails. Maybe I am wrong, and If I am someone here will tell me.

by **crow** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 1:08 am

No bud I would be beyond amazed if a substance as heavy as lead (pun intended) could in anyway make it into the column. I made mention of it because otherwise I knew someone would. if it was in the vapor path and had a large enough surface area exposed to the vapor you might consider pickling it

by **Gribble** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 7:20 pm

If it was in the vapour path we wouldnt be having this discussion. Its staino and copper only.

Turns out 1"BSP elements at my local electrical supplies are dear as poison, so I might do a bit more interweb searching to see if one can be had cheaper. Might see if i can track down a staino ferrule while im at it. Fun times for all.

Time to bottle some beer while the missus watches big brother and home and away......

by **kelbygreen** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 7:41 pm

for $7 plus postage for SS why would you bother with the risk? I am looking at building a still and for $26 delivered I will go with the SS ferrule, ss tri clamp and silicon washer. Its about the same as eating out for one night a week so for the risk I would take the SS option

Edit. them prices are 2", as for ferrules you looked on the AC/DC? all there, HERE!

by **Gribble** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 8:26 pm

Ahh, weld in ferrule for the heating element, not for the coloumn. I already got that sorted.

The stainless needle valve looks sexy though.........

by **Sam.** » Wed Oct 03, 2012 9:19 pm

Gribble wrote:If it was in the vapour path we wouldnt be having this discussion. Its staino and copper only.

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=1520

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=1012

Probably missed a couple more as well, but yes in the end there is no doubt left if you use staino or copper.

by **Urrazeb** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:24 pm

Gribble wrote:Basic plan is to holesaw and silver solder it in. Seems simple enough.

I think most use a step bit, would a hole saw hold up drilling stainless, might be a bit hard to get started too?

by **Camikaze** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:43 pm

Yeah mate. For the drain tap on my keg (3/4"), I used a Bi-metal one from Mitre10 that cost me $20.

Cut through my keg in about 20 seconds. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Edit - lots of pressure and a slow speed is the key. And a can of WD40.

by **Urrazeb** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:40 pm

Ahh sweet thanks :)