Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

I asked this in my build thread, but felt it might be getting a little off topic so thought I'd start a fresh thread, also might be easier for people in the future to find/reference.

So... Where the heck do I buy an affordable 1/4" stainless or low lead brass compression valve in Melbourne or even Australia? Something like this
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/331513436024?nav=SEARCH
But that won't take a month to arrive. I'd prefer a needle, but ball will do.

I just got a quote from Swagelok, located around the corner from me, for a SS 1/4 inch ball valve for $340!!!!!!!! :scared-eek: I almost spat out a full mouth of coffee! Thought the guy was having me on. But he sent thru a legit quote and website quoted the same. I know swagelok have a lifetime guarantee and blah blah, but damn! I mean seriously, WTF?!

Also, yes I realise Mac and other people often say for a 2" boka fit a 3/4" outlet but I don't have any 3/4 inch tube and have plenty of 1/4 inch. I'm not going to be using the boka in pot mode or doing stripping runs (will build a pot for that later).

Have you given Mac a call? He may have something that isn't on the store page.

If he doesnt try Kempe they should have a store near you not saying they'll be cheap but they should be able to help you out.
http://www.kempe.com.au/our-operations/ ... equipment/

I've never said to use 3/4" for a 2" boka outlet, I always recommend 3/8" ;-)

Ha! Yeah.. whoops meant 3/8. :-P

I struck what I thought was gold after about a dozen phone calls, found an air-con/refrig place that had them, but they were all brass, pretty pricey ($54 but better than $340) also were olive joins and the valve itself was massive. I was about to leave when the guy told me to check out Reece. I told him I'd already called, but he said try again and speak to someone in a HVAC, not plumbing or irrigation. So followed his advice, and although they don't stock 1/4" needle, they did have a ball valve, stainless steel centre, brass compression fitting, price for tradies $18! Sure its not a needle, but I consider this a win!

It doesn't HAVE to be a needle, does it? I know you get more control with one, but thats it right?

Here's a pic

In order of preference:

Needle

Gate

Ball

Ask about a stainless gate valve at Reece or wherever else :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Mate I've got a 1/4 316 stainless needle valve I never used if your interested.

Hardie355 wrote:Mate I've got a 1/4 316 stainless needle valve I never used if your interested.

Sick! You rock hardie. PM me with deets.

So I'm going to pick up Hardies valve he offered soon as i get a lil cash injection since its much nicer than mine, its a needle valve so I'll have flow control and it's all stainless. But I've been searching for a thread or comment about why its so important to have good flow control on a reflux.

Could someone explain to me how they make use of their needle valve? Do you set an exact and particular flow rate to better control your internal temp or something similar? Or do you slow down the rate when you think your approaching the end of your heads or hearts or tails or similar? Or something else?

And at the end of the day will a ball really make a lot of difference? It doesnt have great control, but theres at least a halfway closed point (maybe even quarters). Especially considering my flow rate will be a little slow anyway since I have used a 1/4" outlet tube?

With a boka (Liquid Management) reflux still you run your coolant flat out, the needle valve is on the spirit output, you adjust the reflux ratio with the needle valve.

Right, ok. That kinda makes sense, sorta. Not sure how I would measure that kind f thing tho, or know when to open it up or close down the valve. The last VM reflux I used I was told to just open the valve to full once a stable temp between 76 and 80 was reached. Would love to know some more.

You have read this yah ! http://aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=3117 cheers hillzabilly :handgestures-thumbupleft:

The reflux ratio is worked out by opening up the valve fully ,measure the amount of output in a minute say 100 mls multiply by 60 for a maximum hourly total of 6000 mls or 6lts ,the reflux ratio is the amount collected compared to the amount allowed to return down the colomn,so if I collect 1lts per hour that would be a reflux ratio of 1to5,1lts collected to 5lts returned,the needle valve makes these fine adjustments easy with a graduated cylinder and a timer,hope that helps .cheers hillzabilly

limitedsky wrote:Right, ok. That kinda makes sense, sorta. Not sure how I would measure that kind f thing tho, or know when to open it up or close down the valve. The last VM reflux I used I was told to just open the valve to full once a stable temp between 76 and 80 was reached. Would love to know some more.

Mate you might want to do some more research through the newbies corner before going too much further ;-)

Thanks peeps. Got my PT reading sorted for the rest of the week!

hillzabilly wrote:You have read this yah ! http://aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=3117 cheers hillzabilly :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Yeah.. but it says a needle is required to control the flow, I'd never read anywhere the reason to have fine control and limit output or how to measure it.

hillzabilly wrote:The reflux ratio is worked out by opening up the valve fully ,measure the amount of output in a minute say 100 mls multiply by 60 for a maximum hourly total of 6000 mls or 6lts ,the reflux ratio is the amount collected compared to the amount allowed to return down the colomn,so if I collect 1lts per hour that would be a reflux ratio of 1to5,1lts collected to 5lts returned,the needle valve makes these fine adjustments easy with a graduated cylinder and a timer,hope that helps .cheers hillzabilly

Cheers for this, this is what I'm going to research more on i.e what ratio of reflux required for better neutrals etc.

Needle valves also allow you to very accurately draw of the the different fractions.

In theory you can allow your still to reach equilibrium then draw off the top fraction put the still into equilibrium again and draw the next fraction.

With a ball valve this would be very difficult if not impossible.

Once again novice here so take what I say with a pinch of shit....could be terribly wrong :))

Edit: If you can ditch your 1/4 plans and go the 3/8 that way you'll get to have a life away from ya still.

MickC wrote: If you can ditch your 1/4 plans and go the 3/8 that way you'll get to have a life away from ya still.

Ha! Yeah, been considering it. (Anyone got a spare meter or two? :-))
But I guess I just couldn't understand why. I've been told the same from a couple of the pros so there's obviously some truth to the matter and maybe I'll find the answer in my readings, but I can't seem to understand why 3/8 will make a considerable difference. As far as I understood the max I'd be looking to collect from a 2" 1.2m boka is about 50ml per min, I'm pretty sure that when I was testing the joins and pouring in water through the top of the column the output tube was spewing out water at what I'd guess would be around 1lt per min, maybe more.

If you go 3/8 it'll run better if you want to run it in pot mode. (Detuned)
I have a heap of 3/8 copper and a few needle valves laying around. If you want them?

Another thing that we are trying to achive is consistancy,being able to measure and adjust your output speed to give you that is a skill we are all trying to master regardless of the type of still used ,as far as quality is concerned generaly the slower your take off speed the better your quality will be ,but you will always get to a point of deminishing return .Read up and accept that some parts of stillin can only realized by doing a few runs and compareing results ,keep a few simple notes and let your senses tell you what works .cheers hillzabilly