bluc wrote:Seriously go at leat a keg and r" or there will be regrets
What you smoking man, this sounds like gobbledygook.
bluc wrote:Seriously go at leat a keg and r" or there will be regrets
scottyd72 wrote:Can anyone tell me what the minimum thickness of copper plate is for the bubble plates?
woodduck wrote:scottyd72 wrote:Can anyone tell me what the minimum thickness of copper plate is for the bubble plates?
I used 2" pipe flattened out so thats about 1.6mm I think. I will use 2mm on my next one, maybe overkill.
woodduck wrote:1.2 might be ok. I built a glasser so I had to use thicker plates for rigidity the next one I'm gonna build needs thicker plate too. You might find that with a modular copper still 1.2 might be better as you have to sandwich it between the 2 sections with 2 seals. You might have to have a look around at a couple of builds to find that info. I do remember a thread where people were having trouble getting their plates to seal properly because they were too thick to get a clamp on.
scythe wrote:I think the main issue is that you cannot use 2 seals when you are using easy flanges.
Where as if you just flare and flatten the pipe then 2 seals are fine.
Or it may have been that they were using 2 silicon seals instead of 2 EPDM seals, silicone seals being thicker.
scythe wrote:Soldering in you plates can work, on a fully modular build, trying to solder plates into a long bit of pipe will be a pain.
And what if one of your plates does not load properly you have to remove all the ones in front of it to fix it.
You will need to have a seal at each join.
A triclamp will work on about 5-7mm of flange outside wdge.
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