3" SS/Copper bubbler build

[scottyd72]

Thought I should start a new thread for key bubbler build seeing as I have started on it. So I'll just copy and paste my starter comments from my other thread here.


Update: Decided to make 4 separate SS sections using 3" flanges and SS pipe so that I can slip the copper plates between each flanged section.
Im half way thru making a 2" PC which will be 500mm long using 6 x 3/8" pipes inside it.
Still have to get a small length of 3" copper pipe to make a RC shotty, with 1/2 pipe inside.

Here are some pics of my new build.
I don't have all the parts for completing as yet as this is all I have been able to do so far, from gathering stuff locally so far. I will need to buy glass, seals, clamps and a temp gauge setup from Macstill in another month or two (when I can afford it).

I bought a small 180 amp stick and lift TIG welder 2 weeks ago and have been practicing on some mild and stainless steel. I need lots more practice too :laughing-rolling:
But im getting the hang of it...

My first time TIG welding 3" ss pipe to a flange... think I need lots more practice... :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :angry-banghead:

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[scottyd72]

Actually managed to weld 5 up. Still have to drill out the 2" hole for the window flanges to weld in. I'm going to have 4 plate sections. One of these 3" sections will just be a short riser for the base of the column and for the first bubble plate to sit on.

IMG_3395.JPG

My motivation comes from a few of the bender bubbler builds I've seen on these forums. :text-thankyoublue: to Milky is one that comes to mind :text-thankyoublue:

[scottyd72]

My next job is to make a few easy flanges next weekend. Also aquire a bit of 3" copper pipe for the RC.

[bluc]

Think you have done good especially since its your first time tig welding :handgestures-thumbupleft: What sort of tig do you have?

[woodduck]

Looking bloody good mate, you'll make a pro welder if you keep going like that :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Nino]

Looking bloody good mate, you'll make a pro welder if you keep going like that :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Yep :text-+1: :)

[Thiele]

As long as there are no leaks, welds are sturdy and everything is level - then its all systems go.
What does the weld look like on the inside of the tube?

(Some lucky welders at home have access to argon or Helium gas, which is introduced into the pipe/tube so that the weld is shielded from Oxygen and water - avoid those oxides and get a very clean smoother weld. My first few welds were thrown out :)) )

[Fishleg]

Lookin sweet mate, I'm also interested in your welder, what type did you get and how much? I'm looking to upgrade my little miller dc scratch start to something a little bigger and with lift arc

[scottyd72]

Thank you all for your encouragement.
I bought a cigweld Weldskill 180 stick and lift tig machine. Have bought 1.0mm, 1.6mm and 2.4mm 2% thoriated tungstens and 1.6mm mild and stainless filler rods. The welder with a argon pressure reg and tig torch was $469 I then just had to buy a helmet, gloves. All from Sydney tools.
Got a d size argon cyl from Boc for $165 which covers 12 months of rental and a free refill, which I've already used.

I tried to back purge the insides of the pipes by taping some thin s/steel plate to each end and thru a small hole blow argon into it and let the air out another hole then tape the holes before welding.
Not sure it entirely worked as the backs of the welds looked a bit burnt, but not as much as when I didn't bother at all. There are bubbles of metal on the inside of the welds. I'll post a pic or two when I can later. Might grab a file and file the insides smooth if I get time.
I still need to drill the 2" holes for the 2" flanges for the windows then weld them on 4 of them.

[scottyd72]

That reminds me I still have to find some copper 2" bends to make the 180 degree section on the top. Is it possible to bend 2" copper pipe into a 180 degree bend???

[Fishleg]

That reminds me I still have to find some copper 2" bends to make the 180 degree section on the top. Is it possible to bend 2" copper pipe into a 180 degree bend???

You should be able to get 90 degree bends in 2" from a plumbing shop like Reece or tradelink, they usually already have the expanded ends to plug a straight piece of pipe in and solder it. They are relatively inexpensive I think around $15 each
Don't think you'd have much luck trying to bend pipe that size yourself??? Maybe if you fill it with sand so it doesn't kink and heat it up and use some sort of jig??

[Fishleg]

That's a pretty sweet deal you got on your welder, is it ac/dc or just dc?

[scottyd72]

That's a pretty sweet deal you got on your welder, is it ac/dc or just dc?

Thanks, na just DC. The ac/dc ones are a thousand just for the machine minimum.

[scottyd72]

That reminds me I still have to find some copper 2" bends to make the 180 degree section on the top. Is it possible to bend 2" copper pipe into a 180 degree bend???

You should be able to get 90 degree bends in 2" from a plumbing shop like Reece or tradelink, they usually already have the expanded ends to plug a straight piece of pipe in and solder it. They are relatively inexpensive I think around $15 each
Don't think you'd have much luck trying to bend pipe that size yourself??? Maybe if you fill it with sand so it doesn't kink and heat it up and use some sort of jig??

Ah ok thanks, I'll have to drop into my local store and grab a couple.

[rash]

That reminds me I still have to find some copper 2" bends to make the 180 degree section on the top. Is it possible to bend 2" copper pipe into a 180 degree bend???

You should be able to get 90 degree bends in 2" from a plumbing shop like Reece or tradelink, they usually already have the expanded ends to plug a straight piece of pipe in and solder it. They are relatively inexpensive I think around $15 each
Don't think you'd have much luck trying to bend pipe that size yourself??? Maybe if you fill it with sand so it doesn't kink and heat it up and use some sort of jig??

Ah ok thanks, I'll have to drop into my local store and grab a couple.

Or you could check out your local demolition yard and look through their sink collection. I have picked up a couple of 2" copper s-traps which usually comprise of a couple of 180' j-bends.

[rash]

Also, your build is quite similar to mine, i made the rc shotty from stainless. Was a lot easier than i thought. I kept the tubes a few mm long each end and didnt have to add filler wire. Fuse it together and the extra length acts as your filler. :handgestures-thumbupleft: looking good by the way!

[scottyd72]

Also, your build is quite similar to mine, i made the rc shotty from stainless. Was a lot easier than i thought. I kept the tubes a few mm long each end and didnt have to add filler wire. Fuse it together and the extra length acts as your filler. :handgestures-thumbupleft: looking good by the way!

Ah not a bad idea there... i still have a bit of 3" stainless... I'll think about that...

[scottyd72]

Here are a few pics of the inside of two of the 3" sections.

IMG_3399.jpg

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[nuddy]

Thank you all for your encouragement.
I tried to back purge the insides of the pipes by taping some thin s/steel plate to each end and thru a small hole blow argon into it and let the air out another hole then tape the holes before welding.
Not sure it entirely worked as the backs of the welds looked a bit burnt, but not as much as when I didn't bother at all. There are bubbles of metal on the inside of the welds. I'll post a pic or two when I can later. Might grab a file and file the insides smooth if I get time.

Looks like the purging worked okay from the pics, if you wanted to improve your purge. Get yourself a Y piece/splitter,a flow meter and a spare gas hose, split the flow from the bottle to your tig and your purge line. Cap the ends of your tube off like you did (I've used thick cardboard with a triclamp to great success) poke a hole in one end for the gas hose to go in, seal its connection well. Then on the far end poke a few small holes in the cardboard to let the gas escape. Turn your flow meter for the purge line down and let the gas continually flow inside the piece you are working. There are many ways to skin this cat but that is what I've been using to decent success. Look forward to your welding progress. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[scottyd72]

Thank you all for your encouragement.
I tried to back purge the insides of the pipes by taping some thin s/steel plate to each end and thru a small hole blow argon into it and let the air out another hole then tape the holes before welding.
Not sure it entirely worked as the backs of the welds looked a bit burnt, but not as much as when I didn't bother at all. There are bubbles of metal on the inside of the welds. I'll post a pic or two when I can later. Might grab a file and file the insides smooth if I get time.

Looks like the purging worked okay from the pics, if you wanted to improve your purge. Get yourself a Y piece/splitter,a flow meter and a spare gas hose, split the flow from the bottle to your tig and your purge line. Cap the ends of your tube off like you did (I've used thick cardboard with a triclamp to great success) poke a hole in one end for the gas hose to go in, seal its connection well. Then on the far end poke a few small holes in the cardboard to let the gas escape. Turn your flow meter for the purge line down and let the gas continually flow inside the piece you are working. There are many ways to skin this cat but that is what I've been using to decent success. Look forward to your welding progress. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Ah sweet!
Oh nice setup idea! Yep just dont tell my wife im buying more gear :laughing-rolling: :naughty:
Thanks yeah im keen to weld more, im just limited by the expensive argon gas.