Yeast Stirrer

[RuddyCrazy]

G'Day Guy's,
Well while working nightshift some nights everything is running fine so I am one bored chappie :scared-eek: so I decided to make a yeast stirrer as in the past when re-hydrating yeast I have had to get lumps dissolved and this device will cure that problem.

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Now this pic show's a 1000ml beaker which will do for a 200 litre ferment which will be the limit for this device

I deiced to glue a rubber sheet ontop of the SS disk for better grip for the glass flasks as the smooth SS could of caused the glass to slip. :angry-banghead:

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As seen on the floor I have made a heap of 6mm SS rod's to suit different beakers going from 100mm to 300mm in 50 mm increments. For the 90 degree joiners they do ned a file to get the hole sitting square and the hole is a tad tight so this will loosen up the movement. To make the 90 degree clamps I just drilled 2 6mm holes 90 degrees apart give or take a few degrees and the clamps are M6 cap screws 10mm long with a 40mm 6mm diameter bar as the handle, now to tig weld on the handle was just strike the arc and feed some filler rod then let the argon seal the weld after I released the button.

I still haven't made the rake as until last night I didn't know the direction of that pancake motor I used, at first it was going counter clockwise and when I put pressure on the sprocket it changed direction :scared-eek: and now goes clockwise like I wanted :handgestures-thumbupleft:

The pancake motor is 240 volts AC and 3 watt with 5 rpm output speed which is close to purfect for this application. As I did have 2 matching 15 teeth 1/4" chain sprockets I used them and when the adjustment is fully let off the chain can be removed :handgestures-thumbupleft: Now as this pancake motor does have a plastic output shaft I'm going to machine up a shaft and install a bearing above it so no side pressure can destroy the plastic shaft.

I made the motor mount out of 1mm SS plate and made it slightly larger so I can silicon seal around the diameter so the motor is sealed and no water can get in when washing down after use. :handgestures-thumbupleft: The frame is made from 25x5 SS flat bar and tig welded together, the top disk was cut from 100x5mm SS flat bar and I tig welded some 25mm diameter bar on for the bearing shaft. I found some SS hollow bar to use and found some 28x12 sealed bearings to use and machined the bore 0.01 under so the bearing were a tap in fit.

Now when fabricating in SS trying to keep everything square is a nightmare :angry-banghead: why as soon as SS is introduced to the intense heat of a tig IT WILL GO which ever way it wants so quite a few tap taps are needed to even everything up. In the end by using a bull level I found after one rotation it was within 1/2 a bubble so that is good enough for me. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Many may and will ask why even bother making this device when a bit of stirring can do the same job :laughing-rolling: Well as I am being payed a top rate :handgestures-thumbupleft: if there is nothing to do making things like this does make the nights go that much quicker :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Cheers Bryan