Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Can someone tell me how they made there 4" column connection for their keg, i have dropped all my stuff of to be welded but the guy was a little unsure, he can only fold 1.5mm so he was also unsure if that would hold ?

Also would you guys highly recommend a drain port be added as well ? currently i have him welding 2 element fitting down the bottom a thermometer fitting next to the column and trying to work out this 4" column.

The best way is to weld a 4" ferrule on the keg, like these http://aussiedistiller.com.au/webstore/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=61 the one shown is 3" but you get what I mean. Then you just clamp it on with a tri clamp.

Having a drain is a pretty good idea, you dont want to be trying to mess around with a hot keg full of boiling liquid... just attach a hose and send it down the drain.

Any advice on where to get a 4" version?

A drain it is then.

Try midway metals, or if your not in a rush PM me... pretty sure I got a spare somewhere ;-)

Thanks Mac, i'm out near midway today so ill call in, in a little rush only not to hold up the welding that i am getting done for free :dance:

Just out of interest when you empty the boiler after the run do you wait till it cools and is there any risk of creating some kind of dangerous airlock if you empty it while hot

Hill wrote:Just out of interest when you empty the boiler after the run do you wait till it cools and is there any risk of creating some kind of dangerous airlock if you empty it while hot

Re draining, use hot backset / dunker / slops to dissolve sugar/molasses if you're adding backset / dunker / slops to your fermenter UJSM style - don't forget to let it cool to below 30*C after you've dissolved your sugar/molasses before adding to the fermenter.

As your still should be open to the atmosphere (for safety sake) you should not create any sort of airlock when draining your boiler with the still attached (caveat here being with bubble cap plated columns - you will need to ensure that each plate can drain somehow - or you will need to remove the column before draining the boiler).

So when cleaning the bubble cap systems, you would let the the plates drain, the boiler cool slightly they disconnect the column, drain the boiler, clean and then fill for a cleaning run. is that about right?

I'm thinking if that's the case a second 4" or 6" entry point may be worth looking at.
I wonder if you could get a 10" ferrule welded on the front of the keg for extreme ease of cleaning hhhhhhmmmmmmm.

Even with a bubblecap system,there is no need to remove it,nor,if you're like me,a need to do a cleaning run after each use.Just wait till its cool and give it a hose out with fresh water :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft:
PS it all depends on how pissed I am as to wether it gets cleaned at all :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

I let fores and heads from the next run clean it ;-)

How about a 10" ferrule of the front of the keg have you ever seen that Mac, do you think it would work or would it be too much trouble to seal.

No never seen it myself, but I reckon the price of a 10" ferrule, cap and clamp could cause you bowel problems :laughing-rolling:

On the top of my boiler I have an 8" ferrule, a 8" cap with a 4" ferrule TIG'd on for my column...

I've got a 4" and an 8" ferulle on the top of my boiler as well :handgestures-thumbupleft: but I use the 4" as a fill port :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

were do you get the 8" from? maybe ill put one of them on for cleaning.

I think you'll find that AC/DC will be stocking them in the near future :handgestures-thumbupleft: Well I hope so,got the building bug again,and I think Bertha may be pregnant :think: