Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Started upgrading plans on my keg boiler today.

Pulled out the no weld 2200 watt element and marked up where Im going to get some ss sockets welded in.

At this stage I will get 2 X 25mm half sockets added for screw in heater elements. I just picked up a new 1 inch bsp screw in 2400 watt heater today which will go in the lower one, and the other will just get a brass cap until I get another screw in element down the track.

While at electricalshop I grabbed a basic junction box and cover to go over the element electrical connections when it gets wired up.

Ill also add a 32mm socket near the base for a drain. I have a ss 1 1/4 inch to 3/4 threaded reducer so I will probably just use a 3/4 hose tap or ball valve for the drain itself. Will be so much easier than siphoning and manhandling the big 18 gallon (81 litre) keg like I used to.

Will also be getting half a dozen or so ss to copper still connections brazed by the same engineering firm that helped me out with some earlier brazing and drilling work on the keg originally. Once they are done a plumber mate has offered to solder up all my pot and still head bits for me so I'm finally going to able to get stilling again. :D

FINALLY got my keg and copper/stainless bits back today from the engineering shop.

Can't really complain though it didn't cost me much, a couple of bots of corn whiskey and $50 cash to put it together.

Ended up getting another 2 inch ferrule welded on top of the existing keg top so I can easily get to the triclover clamp. Theres also a little lip inside at the join that might be good for a gin basket to sit in easily.

Also realised I needed a grounding point for the wiring and unlike the skirt on the base of the 50 litre kegs the 18 gallon ones seem to be keg all the way to the bottom. So I got a small ss tab welded between the 25mm sockets to screw the earth wires to.

Tried the junction box setup, seems to look ok, will silicon mastic (high temp rated) it onto the keg after I clean up the keg a bit.

Now to the plumber for some soldering still bits and sparkie mate to check the wiring..

Heres a few pics of the junction box and 1 inch bsp screw in 2400w element. Still to be wired up but hopefully will do the job for me.

If I decide I need more power I'll get another screw in element and wiring setup into the other socket, but for now I'll just try the one and see how it goes.

Got the junction box fitted up yesterday and wired in this morning. Earth wire grounded onto metal lug next to junction box.
Also added the drain tap and capped the spare socket.
No leaks :D so next job is to see if she fires up, then do a vinegar cleaning run and check the new still heads and attachments for leaks....

looks good

8-ball wrote:looks good

Not wrong :clap:

I love the element, nice n compact.... I want a couple :doh:

Very Nice BGT. I'd be tempted to drill a hole in the bottom of the junction box, so if the element does start leaking you'll see it dripping before it fills up and shorts out the wiring.

I also like the options you have left your self with multiple element sockets, would let you run several at lower power for a lower watt density when stilling on the grain, or have them as a backup in the event of a burn out. Nice work fella :clap:


Al

Thanks guys. I cant take all the cred though, Hookline had some good pics on HD on AD on his setup which I used as the basis for the element/junction setup.

The boilers been fired up a few times now and does the job well. I'm still not sure if I'll add another element or leave as is. That is the problem with this hobby, you finish something and then think about tinkering with something else!

G'day BGT
I've just acquired an 18 gal keg and I'm gunna set this one up probably very similar to yours and I was wondering.... how long it takes to bring a full charge to temp with the 2400w set-up ? :?

cheers
Stubs

Yeah stubs, I've done a few stripping runs in the last few days. With a bit of insulation around the keg it took around 2.5 hours to get the first foreshot drips coming out from a 70 odd litre charge at around 24 degrees c in the shed.

Hmmm,
If I have read the above right, ya gunna stick another 2200w element in later, as well, arn't ya ? :think:

Yeah either another 2400w element and run a separate lead back into the house to a different circuit, or get a 1200 watt added to give me 3600 watts total in the shed (its on its on 10 amp circuit).

Electrician friend built himself a keg boiler with two elements - one 2400 and one 1200. The 1200 is turned off when the charge reaches boil.

I am looking at doing something similiar. When I quizzed him about power supply and power points, he told me that most modern houses are wired with multiple circuits with 25 amp circuit breakers and house wiring to suit. I have a set of double 10 amp power sockets on a 25 amp breaker, so will have no trouble at all as each socket in the double outlet can deliver 10 amps each (2400 watts)

Would suggest you check your circuit breaker size and the cabling capacity on your existing powerpoint circuit. It may only require a change of breakers and a double power outler installed if the house wiring can carry it.

Icarus

BGT
Can I ask ya "where didya get ya 2400w elements from ?

Cheers

Stokes supply 2400 watt elements, I posted a link to the best ones here a couple of weeks ago.

I musta missed it, :doh: , I'll put my glasses on and have a proper look :whistle:

Hi stubbs sorry I missed that discussion in Mcstills voltage controller link as well.

The element I used was a 2400 watt corrosion resistant incoloy 800 sheath in 1 inch BSP thread screw in (Stokes code 1329BL, Grimwood code 3267AG724). When I got it in September last year the price was $65.90 incl gst.

I ended up getting mine through a local electrical wholesaler called rexel, but any electrical supply companies should either have them or could get them in reasonably easily.

If you check out the link 5Star posted for stokes hot water stuff, page 100 also includes an equivalents list. From my research there seems to be 3 main companies involved (Stokes, Grimwood and LN Products) and use the same elements but marketed under different codes. For example I asked the supplier yesterday about a price for the 1200 watt 1 inch screw in element to add to my keg boiler. When I quoted the Grimwood product number (the 2400 watt element they supplied was the grimwood code), they said the product wasn't available, but when I mentioned the Stokes reference, it was "no worries can get one delivered straight away".

Got another element this week and just got it fitted. Its a 1200 watt 1nch screw in, with a separate power cord.

Now I'll have 3600watts combined for heat up, then turn off the 1200 element for the run.

If I find 2400w too much for some spirit runs, I can switch down to 1200w. :smile:

Now I'm playing with a putting together a bigger condensor so I can use 3600w for strips as well.

BKT
I just got 6000w of elements the other day ( 1 x 3600 & 1x 2400 ) got them at Cetnaj. Both for $ 86.00 inc gst I don't know if they are national, but had them sitting on the shelf as a stock item, So spares are there if they are needed in a hurry
I'm gunna start building this new boiler soon , well seeing as I'm getting all the bits together I spose I could say I've started the build already :laughing-rolling:
Plenty pics soon , stay tuned, same bat channel , same bat time :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

To give everyone an idea of approx heat up and run times, I've found the following with my setup so far:-

Approx heat up time for 9-11% ABV wash at around 70 litres is around 150 minutes with the 2400 watt element.

With both elements on at 3600w, the first drops start coming out of the condensor at around 110 minutes.

Total time from start to finish stripping run with my pot head is around 440 minutes with 2400w and around 296 minutes with 3600w. Although I am using a faster flow of cooling water with more heat, I am saving around 2.4 hours of time each run.