Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

The Stig wrote:He’s an electrical engineer, so he keeps telling me :angry-banghead:

Tell him to turn it on then stick his hand in and grab and see if it’s hot enough :teasing-tease:

The Stig wrote:He’s an electrical engineer, so he keeps telling me :angry-banghead:

You sure hes not a facebook troll?

PS: It’s not me!

:?

Your kidding, right stig.
Is he telling you that his was won't boil.
Just get to 74-78*c?

Sounds about right to me.
Electrical engineers are a special breed.

whiskeyshiner wrote:He’s probably using a PID to control boiler

He is using one of our controllers

bluc wrote:What am i missing if you fill a keg with water and have a 2400w elemdnt it will boil :think: it just takes longer to boil then a 3600s or 2x 2400w..

Correct

Sam. wrote:Tell him to turn it on then stick his hand in and grab and see if it’s hot enough :teasing-tease:

:laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

bluc wrote:You sure hes not a facebook troll?

Positive mate, hes been here buying odds and ends to make his still

Amberale wrote:PS: It’s not me!

:?

No its not you :teasing-neener:

scythe wrote:Your kidding, right stig.
Is he telling you that his was won't boil.
Just get to 74-78*c?

Sounds about right to me.
Electrical engineers are a special breed.

Not kidding, I got to the point where I said "we are just going around in circles so Im going because I havent got time for this".
Then I said "if you think the element is faulty just bring it back, but its going to do the same thing"

Doesn't smell right. He says he's an EE, but tells you he "read on the 'net" that 2400W won't boil 50L???

I'm calling BS!

Tesla101 wrote:Doesn't smell right. He says he's an EE, but tells you he "read on the 'net" that 2400W won't boil 50L???

I'm calling BS!

:text-+1: if he is an ee he should get a new career :handgestures-thumbupleft:

bluc wrote:

Tesla101 wrote:Doesn't smell right. He says he's an EE, but tells you he "read on the 'net" that 2400W won't boil 50L???

I'm calling BS!

:text-+1: if he is an ee he should get a new career :handgestures-thumbupleft:

He is well and truly retired

Had a phone call yesterday arvo from old mate.
First thing out of his mouth was “ I owe you an apology”
I said “what’s that now”
I don’t know if he seen this post or he did some actual research but he now knows the 2400 will actually boil a 50l wash , just slowly.

Of course it will, as long as you keep inputting energy into a system/ liquid it will continue to heat up.
Plus any liquid will plateau once it hits its specific boiling point. Then it will hold this temp until all the liquid has vapourised into steam.
Our washes being basically 90%water and 10% alcohol should have a boiling point of around 90*. I can’t be arsed doing the math right now but I have checked my boiler with a digital thermometer once and it was around that temp.

Don't be slack, 1 joule per second = 1 watt which will heat 1 cc of water 1 degree C, work from there.

I was going to keep quiet but he (the engineer) needs to think a bit harder, energy in must > energy out otherwise it will not boil. Laws of thermodynamics and practical physics.

The Stig wrote:A guy bought a 2400W heating element , wired it up without an earth.
Now he’s telling me it won’t make 50l go past 74deg or something like that .
He is telling me I should have sold him a 3600W element because he’s seen on the net that a 2400W will never boil 50l .
And to top that off he’s got a 2” column.
Settle the dispute , who’s right ?

What he is saying is wrong, based on the information we have. You are right.

50L of 12% wash in a naked stainless boiler, starting at 20C, with a 2400W direct immersion heater will take about 100 minutes to boil. Column height and diameter has no effect on boilup time. He should be worried about using an un-earthed installation.

Formula:

TT = 100 * ((v * 8.33 * 453.59237) * (((5 / 9) * (ET - 32)) - ((5 / 9) * (ST - 32))) / (eg * 0.238845896628 * eff)) / 60

Where,
TT = Time to Temperature
v = Volume (Gallons)
ET = End Temperature (Fahrenheit)
ST = Start Temperature (Fahrenheit)
eff = Efficiency
eg = Energy

Example
How long to boil 2 L of water with 2000 W energy, efficiency 19 %, start and end temperature of 20 and 100 degree celsius?
Water Heating / Boiling Time = 29 min.

This is for 100% water, water/ethanol mixtures have lower boiling points dependant on their ratio.

2400w can be easily supplied from a standard Aussie 10A outlet, assuming a quality extension lead is used. 3600w needs a 15 outlet.

Not sure my kettle takes 29mins to boil...
But then it kicks off soon after it starts boiling so probably not hitting 100°c.

The Stig wrote:He’s an electrical engineer, so he keeps telling me :angry-banghead:

He might be an electrical engineer but clearly doesn't understand heat transfer and latent heat of vapourisation.

The Stig wrote:He’s an electrical engineer, so he keeps telling me :angry-banghead:

Where I live (mining town) being called an Engineer is an insult!

Thought I had a burned out element a while back (fit some quotes off you, if you can recall that far back?) but did a run anyway with just one element and it took aaaaages! With 2 x 2400 and insulation, at full charge it takes me near an hour to first drops (that’s 45-50L charge)!
On 1 element it took half a day!!!!

The art of customer service is being able to tell someone to “Go suck yourself!” and they think you’re a nice guy... question to you is, how valuable is his business to you?
I find arguing with customers seldom leads to a winning outcome. As an electrical engineer it is HIS responsibility to know what he wants!!! :)) So offer him a refund (minus postage, restocking fee, etc) for a second hand element and give him a discount on a new 3600W element and some encouragement... I never admit liability, but I always acknowledge his ‘emotions’....


EXIT: dumarse failed to see page 2!

Thanks for joining in ET :laughing-rolling: