Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hi guys, Im making a pot still with the leftovers from my Boka build (which i havent really finished yet ;) )

What size should i have the pipes in the liebig? its going to be a 2" tower with a basic single bend (maybe 2). Is 1/2" sufficient or should i be aiming higher? or smaller? what are the factors to consider?

I just use the same PC for my pot and my reflux still.
Can you do that?

well i COULD i guess. but id prefer to keep them seperate, was going to have the PC soldered to the main column on the boka.

I was thinking 1/2in and 3/4 jacket. that way i can get it all from bunnings fairly cheap. just make it long as possible?

The PC on the Boka is just going to be 1/4" from the takeoff running through a 1/2" jacket.

I spent many hours reading before building my 2" pot still. I ended up with the Bunnings 3/4" (20mm) over 1/2" (15mm). They even have Tee pieces which make it easier.

Tee's 2 x $3.90
http://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-20-x-15-x-15mm-copper-capillary-reducing-tee_p4880026

1/2" pipe $12
http://www.bunnings.com.au/1-5m-copper-straight-length_p4910028

3/4" pipe $16
http://www.bunnings.com.au/copper-hd-drn-straight-length-3-4inx1-02-1-5m-t83359_p4910029

you're reading my mind Kev, stop that! ;)
thats pretty much what I was planning to do and just do it as Long as possible.

Also, is it hard to come by 2" reducers at Reece to get down to this size??? or are they going to give me blank stares and Ill end up ordering on ebay ;) what did you do Kev?

also thing to note. you will need a file or something to file/sand/grind the stop out of the tee so your 1/2" can run right threw. Just encase you dont have one. Another note is dont take to much out as the crimp the stop in so your filing the walls of the cooper not a rib inside so make sure you dont take to much out or it may come threw

for the reductions you may have to got 2"-1" then 1"-1/2" depends what they have but they will sort it out for you :handgestures-thumbupleft:

oh of course, didn't think of doing it in stages... *facepalm*

i get what you mean by the t-piece, I already understood that. But the rest of your post doesnt make any sense. Your spelling/grammar is terrible mate ;)

what spelling and grammar? :laughing-rolling: just saying dont take to much out when taking the stop out as its usually pressed into the piece so your taking that out of the wall thickness

Scales82 wrote:I was thinking 1/2in and 3/4 jacket.

That should be adequate for a 2 inch pot.
Crimping the inner tube of the condenser will improve performance, It disturbs the vapors as they travel along the condenser so that more contact is made with the cool/cold condenser walls. To do this Ive used side cutters or a cold chisel amongst other things at times. Make sure the crimps are on the vertical or you will increase smearing of your cuts.

kelbygreen wrote:also thing to note. you will need a file or something to file/sand/grind the stop out of the tee so your 1/2" can run right threw.

Different Brands of Tee differ in how hard it is to get that bit out, some are real bastards, Ive used rat tail files, and burrs in die grinders at times, the easiest and quickest is the right sized drill bit. ;-)

Spent a lot off time playing with Liebig's style condensers I reckon I've build at least 6 maybe more...

a few things learned....
1/2 inner with 3/4" outer is just as fast as a 3/4" with 1" outer but it costs a fraction of the latter to build. it weighs a fraction and the compression joiners with copper inner collet last heaps longer.

length is the key to getting spirit temp right. hotter scenarios requiring more length. Adelaide 42 summer = 1.2m, winter 500mm is fine.

Huffing is the issue with these beasts. A turbo tip at entrance and a loose coiled wire inner trace wire is the go...turbo tip in nothing more than a twisted knock in scrap piece twisted to throw vapour out to the side walls of tube...simple stuff

Yep 3/4" x 3/4" by 1/2" take off tees save lots of stuffing about cost and looks clean.

Water flow should be sufficient to ensure the hot point on your downward sloping condenser should be about a 1/3 the distance from the entry point. U can use this hot point to gauge sprit temp after a bit of experience and it reduces huffing = no vapour sudden collapse it's progressive.

Clean the sacrificial inner wire coil regularly in water + citric acid or vinegar and you'll stop shit load of nasties ending up in your spirit...for a laugh check it after just one run... :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Never let the exit point become submerged in parrot or spirit = avoids vacuum suck back /slight glass imploding = free to vent.

They're tough reliable little bastards but I loves em.

bt1

Up here our average water temperature is pretty warm, it was 27c today. We don't actually see the really hot days like down south. We only get a few 35c days a year, but get 4 months of 32c. I ended up with a length of 1.2m for the liebig. Even with 2 x 2200w elements running on a stripping run it keeps up, but I need to open up the needle valve on the cooling water a lot.

For my pot still I went from 2" into 3/4" and then down to 1/2" for the liebig. Just to give a break up of the change in vapour speeds. I was going to go 1" but I though might as well use the 3/4" offcut I had from the liebig. My local plumbing shop had a 2" into 3/4" fitting. Then I put a join in the 3/4" to allow me to adjust the output height up and down to suit my desired collection height. From there I used a 3/4" to 1/2" 90 bend to get into the liebig.

To give you an idea from my build. The 3/4" pipe on the liebig side ended up a bit longer than this pic.

thanks guys. I like your design Kev, thats pretty much what I had imagined in my mind. Hopefully local shop has the reducer I need at a reasonable price.

I have a 3/4" ss swagelok union so that will be perfect for the job.

How long is the liebig? I was thinking going 1m or so... or should i even go 1.2?

I went 1.2m, and I'm guessing you are further north than me, so I would go 1.2m min. As shorter liebig will require more water to cool it.

stuff it i'll go 1.5m then, coppers cheap ;)
just rang reece to get quote on all the bits i need. luckily they have it all in stock. I think I might actually build this one before the boka for a bit of soldering practice!

also discovered reece is more expensive than bunnings, but bunnings only supply in 1.5m lengths.... might just get the 1.5 length and make it as long as possible once ive removed a bit for the interconnecting pieces like you have on yours Kev.

depends what sales person you speak to and how you speak to them as once they figure out your not a tradie the price goes up. Walk in with trade clothes on and pretend you know what you want and they will prob give you a better price :angry-banghead: But that still wont stop them bending you over as well just might be a little more gentle :laughing-rolling:

Trust me, I have zero issues in that department. I AM a tradie.... Last time I didnt wear my high-vis but I was rocking king-gee shorts and a wife beater... might give the high vis a run this time...

Theyve already given me prices over the phone... under 10 bucks for a 90deg bend in 2" is pretty good in my book. and less than 5 bucks for the big reducers too.


Now I just gotta wait for my 2 week roster to finish so I can go swing some spanners and blowtorches around and have some fun.... Bring on tomorrow!!!!

If you keep the bunnies 1/2" at the supplied 1.5m, you will need to cut some off from the 3/4" pipe anyway as you need some 1/2" sticking out either end. Then you use the 3/4" offcut as the side piece. Get 100% material usage. :clap:

The other thing I did, before soldering it together push the 2" bend outlet so it faces down a bit, it it sits a bit over 90 degrees. That way any alc that drops out in the section runs towards the liebig.

Great minds think alike.... I had that exact thought in my head in regards to the 1.5M length and the offcut 3/4" jacket pieces. (just wasnt sure if it would be enough). and i thought a slight bend would be good too ;)

What sort of fitting do you have to get to put onto the coolant in/out tee's? I was thinking a 3/4" threaded brass end cap and just drilling a hole in them to solder on. I think the garden hose connector thread is 3/4" from memory....

Or did you get a proper ready made fitting good to go?

I've been going to update them to something pretty, but these are fully functional so will probably remain in place for too long.