Optimum Way of Operating a Pot Still

[Sinerjee]

Evening All,

So I've finally ordered my new pot still, just waiting for a few upgrades I wanted to arrive before it gets sent on to me, but in the meantime I was trying to figure out the most effective way to run it. I did a bit of reading and found that the usual way is to use a voltage controller attached to the element to control the output of the still. However this would require building a controller so I wanted to see if another idea I had would be viable.
I've bought a reflux condenser and packed section along with the pot so I can stop using my T500 to make neutrals. I was thinking of using the reflux condenser with no packed section whenever I wanted to run as a pot still. Would this work? Or would it cause me to lose flavour as it is refluxing? This would only be for spirit runs as for a stripping run I would just be running at max power.
Current boiler will just be the T500 boiler which I think is 2000W.

Cheers

[Yummyrum]

sinergee

I think your idea of using the passive reflux of an empty column would work ,but I think it would be fairly dependent on ambient temps as to how effectively it worked .

Long term ,you will be better off getting a power controller .

[Kimbo]

To answer your question mate, yes it will work ;-)
the fact that you remove the packing will mean little to no refluxing. In fact, if you can turn off the reflux condenser and just use the product condenser.....it's a pot still :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[pulsetech]

He is talking about using his reflux condenser to control his output instead of using a voltage controller.

[Sinerjee]

Yeah the packed section will come out entirely as opposed to removing the packing. Everything is modular so it's easier. My thought was if I use the reflux condenser to knock back some of the vapour coming through than in effect it's sort of acting like a voltage controller without actually adjusting the power input.
This is only in the short term. Long term plan is to only have it running like this for max 6 months before adding some bubble plates. After that I won't need the voltage controller anymore as most people put 2400W into a 4 plate without any hassles so if I can avoid getting one that won't be used for very long would be my best option
It will be a FSD 4" Modular Pot with 2.5" PC, 4" RC and 4" Packed Section.

[pulsetech]

If you want to save yourself some hassle you could just wire your elements up in half. If you used a 3600w element you can wire it up so you have 2 x 1800w elements. My 4 inch fsd pot still runs perfect on a spirit run on 1800w. So use both for heat up and just turn one off.

[Yummyrum]

Good Idea pulse but He's using a T500 boiler which has a single element in the base.
But it did make we wonder about wiring a high power diode in series with the element.
It would rectify the AC so only half the power would go to the element.
It would be a $2.00 half power controller and with a switch to short out the diode , you could very cheaply have a full /half power at the flick of a switch.

I do pot still spirit runs on my 1400 w element..most of the time its about right but I turn it down for early heads and fores....so I recon 1000w would be about right an go full (2000w) when into hearts or at least the tastier parts
:-D
Not sure if the power companys like non symetrical current draw..but then again it can't be that much worse than phase control or burst control..in small doses
:think:

[Sinerjee]

I'm thinking it might just be easier to buy a voltage controller haha.

Anyone happen to have one surplus to requirements that they could sell me? 8-}

[Godzilla2456]

I've got the same issue (not being able to control power input because of the t500 boiler) .

I'll tell you this though. Do not use the T500 reflux condenser without the packing as a pot still. As you run the pot still at far higher temps then what is recommended for the condenser (60). It's got little plastic bits near the spirit outlet that would most likely deform if you ran the condenser too hot. As well as some more plastic bits at the top of the condenser.

I could be wrong, but to me it seems like a valid assumption.

-Godzilla