cooling pot still

Pot still design and discussion

cooling pot still

Postby bluc » Wed May 13, 2015 9:02 pm

Hey all wondering what cooling is needed for a 10l pot still. What size tank and what flow rate pump would be needed. Plan on using an portable induction plate. Help appreciated.cheers
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby rumdidlydum » Wed May 13, 2015 9:18 pm

How long is a piece of string? How tall is it. Whats the diameter?
Induction heater probably no good because its controlled by temp.
Why not introduce your self as everyone else has. And have a look at the newbie corner. :handgestures-thumbupleft: its worth the read.
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby 1 2many » Wed May 13, 2015 9:19 pm

Hi mate welcome, I think you really need to look through the beginner's section and have a good read.

There is quit a lot to absorb take your time and don't rush is my suggestion.

And please pop into the welcome center and introduce yourself it helps us help you. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby bluc » Wed May 13, 2015 10:26 pm

OK cheers have posted a welcome and doing some more reading. The still was given to me one of the Chinese made ones see pic is quite small when I compare to others on the site. About 500_600mm from top to bottom about 400mm across. Didn't come with cooling pump so my next step is getting cooling system ready for it.(was thinking 200l blue drum and bunnings pump something with enough head for my needs but have no idea how fast or often it should turn over water content during a run or how much heat the still will dump in water or how much water I will need to keep temps down(do I need a cooling system on water tank). My Wash's will be round 20l and will be mostly rum(molasses and sugar water). Maybe some bourbon.

Image
bluc
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Location: sunshine coast
equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: cooling pot still

Postby rumdidlydum » Thu May 14, 2015 7:53 am

It looks to be a mini pot setup with a Shotgun style condenser.
Water flow will need to be flowing in through the bottom and out the top. Can you post a pic of the water lines.
It will probably only need a small feed of water. Maybe do a run. Hook it up to a tap and then you will get an idea of how much water you will need. You want the flow to be steady so that it knocks down the alcohol vapour. If any vapor excapes it will be very flamable do not let that happen.. the top of the condenser should be cool to the touch.
You wont need the temp probe until you get an understanding of how it runs and at what temp is normal.
heating it you need an element that won't cycle on and off. So that it doesn't fluctuate. Or a small gas burner would be ideal but being so compact the output would be close to the flame. Do your own risk assessment :handgestures-thumbupleft:
good luck mate let us know how you go.
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby Camikaze » Thu May 14, 2015 10:18 am

If thats one of those chinese ebay pieces of shit, throw it out and build your own. Best advice I can give you. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Not worth the safety risks with poor design, poor materials and shit quality control. Not meaning to be harsh mate but your safety aint worth the risk.
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby Zak Griffin » Thu May 14, 2015 10:58 am

:text-+1:

Might make a good low wines storage or ageing container ;-)
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby drinka » Thu May 14, 2015 11:00 am

:text-+1:
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby RefluxEd » Thu May 14, 2015 11:41 am

Get an IBC, a 200l drum will only work if you are in Southern Victoria or Tassie in winter.
IBC = Intermediate bulk Container. These are the 1000 litre PE tanks in a galvanised frame that can be picked up with a forklift. Keep it on the Southern side of your house or in the shade. That will do the job easily. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
I tried a 200 litre bluey in mid NSW and it heated up so much that it could't complete a run. It worked OK where I live in Vic, but failed as we moved into summer.
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby bluc » Thu May 14, 2015 5:52 pm

Really I need a 1000l tank just to run that little still? Yea I realise its chinese and crap compared to others on this site but going to have a play and have a fire extinguisher handy :music-deathmetal: on the other hand compared to some that are used not to bad, But first need to find some molasses. (yes I will be doing a water and vinegar run to see if it actually works before use.)

Perhaps I could just build one of these viewtopic.php?f=29&t=899
Last edited by bluc on Thu May 14, 2015 6:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
bluc
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 5:47 pm
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equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: cooling pot still

Postby bluc » Thu May 14, 2015 5:57 pm

rumdidlydum wrote:It looks to be a mini pot setup with a Shotgun style condenser.
Water flow will need to be flowing in through the bottom and out the top. .....the top of the condenser should be cool to the touch.
You wont need the temp probe until you get an understanding of how it runs and at what temp is normal.
heating it you need an element that won't cycle on and off. So that it doesn't fluctuate. Or a small gas burner.

Yes water flows from bottom to top, What do I look for in a heating element so I know it wont cycle ?


rumdidlydum wrote:Induction heater probably no good because its controlled by temp....

By this do you mean temp will fluctuate becuase the induction plate will be temp controlled rather than a steady power setting?
bluc
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equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: cooling pot still

Postby bluc » Thu May 14, 2015 6:21 pm

bluc
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equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: cooling pot still

Postby woodduck » Thu May 14, 2015 6:32 pm

Hi bluc,

Is there any particular reason why you want to use a recirculating system? If you have access to mains water i would just use that. The amount of water i recon you'll use on a run wouldn't be that much, maybe water the lawn while you do it, even just for the first run to see how much you will use.

I personally use my rainwater tank to recirculate my water so if you've got one of those you'd be laughing.

Anyway good luck mate
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby bluc » Thu May 14, 2015 6:41 pm

woodduck wrote:Hi bluc,

Is there any particular reason why you want to use a recirculating system?.....

Just for privacy I really dont want to advertise...
bluc
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 5:47 pm
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equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: cooling pot still

Postby RefluxEd » Thu May 14, 2015 6:51 pm

bluc wrote:
...Perhaps I could just build one of these viewtopic.php?f=29&t=899


Wow! A fantastic solution. Beautiful in concept and construction. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

A 500 litre tank would do but an IBC is the cheapest tank that you can get. I can get them for $50. :D

Regarding the K-Mart induction cooker, you'll need to find out if the nine levels are varied by the power changing the induction amount or by simply switching the total power on and off like an electric stove does.
If it switches on and off at a fast rate then it will be fine. As it is so cheap, I'd be concerned that it will switch the power at a slower rate to allow the semiconductors to cool down which will give you an uneven heat input and your output amount will cycle up and down with the switching rate.

Ah, nothing is simple.... :teasing-tease:
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Posts: 110
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2013 3:20 pm
Location: Victoria
equipment: 2 inch BOKA/LM/VM over 8 4x3x4 inch bubble plates + 1 bubble plate under a 4 inch section under the dephlagmator (RC).
2 inch Pot still.
2 inch to 4 inch Gin head.
2x 1.2 mtre Leibig condensors.
2 inch x 800 mm shotgun condenser.

Re: cooling pot still

Postby bluc » Thu May 14, 2015 6:55 pm

Lol yes nothing is easy. What sort of place would sell a lbc 500l tank? Any ideas how I would get the needed info bout induction plate?
bluc
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Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 5:47 pm
Location: sunshine coast
equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: cooling pot still

Postby bluc » Thu May 14, 2015 7:12 pm

How bout two 200l drums connected in series?
bluc
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equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: cooling pot still

Postby Camikaze » Thu May 14, 2015 7:27 pm

10l pot still wont heat 1 barrels worth in a run.

If your dead set keen to use that pot, fire it with gas. Save the rest of your cash for some copper pipe and a keg.

I seriously think you are making a bad choice using that still. Not worried about it catching fire, its the materials that bother me. Is there any lead/cadmium/antimony in any joins? Any plastic? Aluminium? I would doubt even the stainless on that thing.

Your choice and your body mate. I just dont want to see you make a potentially fatal mistake for the sake of a few bob. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: cooling pot still

Postby bluc » Thu May 14, 2015 7:49 pm

OK really don't want to come across as an a**hole but I lived in one of the most contaminated places in Australia for over 20 years a place were lead dust tailings were used to line playgrounds and the local racecourse a good dose of sulphor everyday at 3pm when the released it from the copper smelter and for fun we used to swim in an abandoned open cut mine were the mined uranium lol sounds far fetched but believe me its true.... Really don't think anything in the pot which will probably get used a dozen times if that is going to harm me... Not brave enough to fire this up on gas though that seems like asking for trouble...lol why spoil perfectly good alcohol by trying to make it healthy..

BTW I can't see a need for more than a 200l barrel of coolant either...
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equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: cooling pot still

Postby andybear » Thu May 14, 2015 8:01 pm

I'm with Woody on this one. Just use tap water. It cost about $1 per 1000 lt to buy and my 4" glasser only uses 200-250 litres over a 3 hour run. That’s 25 cents. :think: I'll never use enough to justify a cooling system. Save your money for when you want to upgrade. Plus I collect the hot water into a 220 litre drum and water the garden the next day after its cooled down.
With your heating element, you need it to supply constant heat as you need the boil to continue for the whole run. Even if your element turned off and on every 10 seconds you will loose the boil and it'll give you the shits. Your still looks like a stove top so a bbq side burner will do the trick. Don't run out of gas. And have the hose with trigger nozzle ready if shit goes wrong.
Cheers
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