CCVM build

Reflux still design and discussion

CCVM build

Postby madjaffa » Sun May 01, 2022 10:32 pm

Evening Fellas,

A build is starting to take some shape! Managed to score some free copper :dance: , now just trying to decide how best to use it. The current plan is a CCVM build. I have a few questions before I jump in too quick and potentially waste time and/or copper. When I was planning this in my head I was aiming for modular, but with these jacket type joins I have got here it seems it might be easier to have sections that are fixed. To get stuck into using this sooner than later I'll probably use it in pot still mode initially. I would like to do up some whiskey to put in a bad motivator barrel that I bought for the misses for her b'day with the proviso that I'll fill it ;-)

Was thinking the 560mm length could be made into a shotgun PC. The flattened section of 3" I'll use for the end pieces. All the builds I've seen solder these internally. A mate suggested that I could make another larger circle section that was a bit bigger than 2", cut some slits around it and bang it over the section to make a cap. He was thinking this would be more sturdy. Having thought about this a bit more, I foresee the issue with this is that the caps will make it hard to attach to the rest of the build as you now have slightly larger than 2". Could you instead leave that lip as a flange, or would you run into sealing issues as its flat, without a section for the tri-clamp gasket that most SS flanges seem to have.

Should I stick with at least 50cm and get some more 1/2 " to make up the 5th internal pipe. oooorrrr
Can I get away with a 40cm build to make use of the current lengths I have (i.e. the 860mm would then get 2x pieces out of it) and get 5x internal pipes without buying more 1/2". This would also give me 160mm to add to the top of the tee which I think is needed to properly use the RC (perhaps I may need more than 16cm?).


The plan for RC was going to be Uncoated Stainless Steel Gas that was twisted around itself, anyone using this version for their CCVM know if 36" will be enough.

https://www.amazon.com.au/s?k=gas+connector+uncoated&crid=3XZU7J7FQIP5&sprefix=gas+connector+uncoate%2Caps%2C233&ref=nb_sb_noss

Image

I wasn't planning on using the 4" until I had played around with a 2" build. A bit unsure if this boiler would drive a 4" section. The brewzilla has a 1900w and a 500w for 2400 at full tilt. If so I'm thinking it could be easier to use a length of that as section between the boiler and the tee (riser?) rather than buy more 2" (would get away with just another reducing piece).

If was to go with the 4" how much length will be needed for this section, my gut feeling is that because there is more room for packing, the length can be shorter, but could be wrong as I haven't looked much at any 4" builds yet. I could have it backwards and the 4" needs more length :laughing-rolling: . Saving some of this 4" could be nice to upgrade to a RC deflag setup down the track :think: .

If I go with 4" any tips on removing the white paint. Is a paint stripper safe to use, should I burn it off or sand it off. + final clean with a citric acid bath.

The other option is to leave the 4" for another day. If I was getting more 2" for the up section from what I can recall I'll need about 1.2 -1.5m to get the best use out of it in reflux mode. But could potentially get away with a really short section if using in pot mode?


The random bits and pieces:

old 4" copper ~900mm (will be a bit shy as the ends aren't clean cuts yet)
2" tee
2" length 560mm
2" length 220mm
2x 2" elbows

1/2" (12.7) pipe couple of lengths:
1030mm (not depicted in photo)
860mm
550mm

2" reducer + another piece that makes it so it will fit a length of 1/2" I can run to the collection vessel

Plate cut open from a 3"
190mm x 120mm

Image Image Image

Random bits (no photo)
3" copper cap no photo
another weird size reducer piece seems to be 1.8" to 1.5"
3x1" elbow joins


large plate thing from an old coffee boiler, dunno if I can use but might be able to trade for $$ or more copper.

Image Image
madjaffa
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Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:03 am
Location: Illawarra NSW
equipment: CCVM 2"
Liebig condenser (~950mm 3/4" over 1/2")
Brewzilla 65L (2000w & 1000w & 500w switches + voltage controller)
Heavy duty SS lid. 2" fitting (SG, PV, thermo)
DIY copper SPP (~900mm)

Re: CCVM build

Postby RC Al » Mon May 02, 2022 9:13 am

Firtst up id be very hesitant to hang a 4" off a digiboil lid.
You would need much more power to use the 4" effectively, as you go up in diameter the theoretical plate height dose reduce (not by a massive amount), but only if you feed it a proportionaly larger amount of power at the same time.

Trade the coffee boiler top for some more 2" and go with that, 1 -1.2m is plenty, after 1.5 its diminishing returns. Consider knocking up a liebig - not as sexy but much easier and just as effective at that power level

If your soldering is up to it, yes you could make a flat plate easy flange shotty end, for ease of construction you will likely need to braze the tubes in and soft solder the outside
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Re: CCVM build

Postby madjaffa » Fri May 06, 2022 11:10 am

RC Al wrote:Firtst up id be very hesitant to hang a 4" off a digiboil lid.
You would need much more power to use the 4" effectively, as you go up in diameter the theoretical plate height dose reduce (not by a massive amount), but only if you feed it a proportionaly larger amount of power at the same time.

Trade the coffee boiler top for some more 2" and go with that, 1 -1.2m is plenty, after 1.5 its diminishing returns. Consider knocking up a liebig - not as sexy but much easier and just as effective at that power level

If your soldering is up to it, yes you could make a flat plate easy flange shotty end, for ease of construction you will likely need to braze the tubes in and soft solder the outside



Cheers RC Al for those tips, I did wonder if the 4" was gonna be too heavy, I remember seeing somewhere concerns that those lids are quite flimsy. Found a cheap 50L keg that I can put asider for a boiler down the track, so can save that piece for that later.

A liebig sounds like the way to go to get the build up and running sooner and learn soldering on an easier build :handgestures-thumbupleft:. Probably to the effect:

MacStill wrote:When I was building 2" pot stills for members the liebig was 1" over 3/4" x 700mm long
madjaffa
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Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:03 am
Location: Illawarra NSW
equipment: CCVM 2"
Liebig condenser (~950mm 3/4" over 1/2")
Brewzilla 65L (2000w & 1000w & 500w switches + voltage controller)
Heavy duty SS lid. 2" fitting (SG, PV, thermo)
DIY copper SPP (~900mm)

Re: CCVM build

Postby RC Al » Fri May 06, 2022 1:23 pm

Either of the 2 longer bits of 1/2" with a 3/4 jacket would be heaps at your power level or even twice that power level if you want to save some $$.

There's a build on hd that was a twin liebig if you want to get fancy without getting shotgun fancy :cool:
RC Al
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Location: Sunshine Coast Area
equipment: 3 plate 4" glasser
2" Potty

Re: CCVM build

Postby madjaffa » Fri May 06, 2022 4:04 pm

RC Al wrote:Either of the 2 longer bits of 1/2" with a 3/4 jacket would be heaps at your power level or even twice that power level if you want to save some $$.

There's a build on hd that was a twin liebig if you want to get fancy without getting shotgun fancy :cool:


Ya nice, that works too :handgestures-thumbupleft:. Should be able to grab some 3/4 and soft solder supplies from Bunnings this arvo. :D
madjaffa
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Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:03 am
Location: Illawarra NSW
equipment: CCVM 2"
Liebig condenser (~950mm 3/4" over 1/2")
Brewzilla 65L (2000w & 1000w & 500w switches + voltage controller)
Heavy duty SS lid. 2" fitting (SG, PV, thermo)
DIY copper SPP (~900mm)

Re: CCVM build

Postby madjaffa » Sun May 08, 2022 12:33 am

Condenser progress

Took a bit of practice to get the idea of soldering, but from what I can tell the Liebig condenser is done. Water tight and tidied up. I decided to not bother with a copper wire in between the jacket and just went with a alternating crimp on the vapour pipe. It definitely helps to have the right solder and flux! 8-}
Orienting the joins so the solder had to go down with gravity also seemed to make things much easier to noob through it.

Crimped 1/2" & Tee (12.7x12.7x19)
Image Image

Soldered condenser ~950mm

Image Image

Image Image
madjaffa
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Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:03 am
Location: Illawarra NSW
equipment: CCVM 2"
Liebig condenser (~950mm 3/4" over 1/2")
Brewzilla 65L (2000w & 1000w & 500w switches + voltage controller)
Heavy duty SS lid. 2" fitting (SG, PV, thermo)
DIY copper SPP (~900mm)

Re: CCVM build

Postby bluc » Sun May 08, 2022 7:48 am

Nice :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: CCVM build

Postby madjaffa » Tue May 24, 2022 8:53 pm

Updated build :dance: came together quite well with the suggested edits.

Completed look 90cm vs 60cm
Image Image

Unfortunately the scrubbies didn't pass the magnetic test so will have to look for some others :angry-banghead: .

Corrugated reflux condenser
Image Image

Easy flange with some small gauge copper wire (didn't find any 1/4 inch), the second one was much better than the first :)) .
Image Image

Been through a vinegar run and a sac run in pot still mode, no vapour leaks from mirror test. Will have to go again with the reflux coil and SS 30cm pipe extension attached. Got first hand experience about what I assume is huffing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vqd_89OIrdA


Other than that, from what I can tell...

Image


Excited to run the first stripping run on the DIY!

Put down a 28L NutriGrain Whiskey (I got a very high SG 1.095 at 23L :shock: ) and FFV, but will also give a Mac's BWKO a go as well cause I have all the mats for that :handgestures-thumbupleft:.
I'm guessing that it won't matter that I've got malted wheat?
Last edited by madjaffa on Tue May 24, 2022 8:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
madjaffa
Site Donor
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:03 am
Location: Illawarra NSW
equipment: CCVM 2"
Liebig condenser (~950mm 3/4" over 1/2")
Brewzilla 65L (2000w & 1000w & 500w switches + voltage controller)
Heavy duty SS lid. 2" fitting (SG, PV, thermo)
DIY copper SPP (~900mm)

Re: CCVM build

Postby howard » Wed May 25, 2022 5:05 pm

the SS scrubbies i use (as well as FSD copper mesh) are from the green shed.
Mr Clean Tuffmates Pot And Pan Scrubs, 10 for $8.40
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equipment: 35l brewzilla
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gin caddy
changeover element switch and voltage controller on brewzillas 1900w element.
5L glass boiler/glass leibig

Re: CCVM build

Postby madjaffa » Wed May 25, 2022 5:39 pm

howard wrote:the SS scrubbies i use (as well as FSD copper mesh) are from the green shed.
Mr Clean Tuffmates Pot And Pan Scrubs, 10 for $8.40


Cheers howard
They kind of look similar doesn’t mention toughmates or heavy duty.
Image

The ones I grabbed are magnetic and look a bit flimsy compared to..
Image

These>>. Might have walked by them 8-}
Image


Should be able to take them back & trade :handgestures-thumbupleft:
madjaffa
Site Donor
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:03 am
Location: Illawarra NSW
equipment: CCVM 2"
Liebig condenser (~950mm 3/4" over 1/2")
Brewzilla 65L (2000w & 1000w & 500w switches + voltage controller)
Heavy duty SS lid. 2" fitting (SG, PV, thermo)
DIY copper SPP (~900mm)

Re: CCVM build

Postby Wildcats » Wed May 17, 2023 9:08 pm

Good looking still. Should make you a good drop.
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equipment: 2" ccvm 15.5 gal keg boiler

Re: CCVM build

Postby RC Al » Sat May 27, 2023 9:10 pm

Nice dude :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Im beginning to wonder if any liebig over 3ft should be made with a 3/4" inner tube
That said i can make my 9 hole 5/8 tube footlong ss shotty huff too
Huffing is usually worse for me in winter
Good luck and have fun!
RC Al
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2" Potty

Re: CCVM build

Postby madjaffa » Sat May 27, 2023 9:21 pm

Ahh interesting, so the smaller 1/2" might have been part of the issue. This condenser has been benched for a while, but I should get some reducers and put a 2" ferrule on it / or ezi flange. Its nowhere near as good as the shotty, but it does have some nice length that could be more useful when I've got the bubblers + packing setup for neutral (height issues :D ).

Considering this setup needs to be run slow anyways, might be enough to knock down and keep the distillate at a reasonable temp :think:
madjaffa
Site Donor
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:03 am
Location: Illawarra NSW
equipment: CCVM 2"
Liebig condenser (~950mm 3/4" over 1/2")
Brewzilla 65L (2000w & 1000w & 500w switches + voltage controller)
Heavy duty SS lid. 2" fitting (SG, PV, thermo)
DIY copper SPP (~900mm)

Re: CCVM build

Postby RC Al » Sat May 27, 2023 9:45 pm

It gets much easier if you use an needle valve, but its not a cure all, are your condensers on different valves?
RC Al
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Posts: 1568
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Location: Sunshine Coast Area
equipment: 3 plate 4" glasser
2" Potty

Re: CCVM build

Postby madjaffa » Sat May 27, 2023 10:01 pm

Ya at the moment for the bubbler setup I have a needle valve on the RC with gravity water feeding from the rain tank into a 200L container (pumped back into tank when it’s too full). Then I run tap water through the shorty condenser at a fairly slow trickle, doesn’t need much to knock things down. From memory when I used the Liebig the tap was definitely needing much more than a trickle otherwise distillate was creeping up to 30-40 deg. So the shotty has the advantage of not wasting too much paid $$ water.

I tried at one point to piggy back the condensers together. But I found that the needle valve was slowing things down too much to the PC. Though I haven’t tried a Y piece yet, that might negate the need for any town water. :think:
madjaffa
Site Donor
 
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2022 8:03 am
Location: Illawarra NSW
equipment: CCVM 2"
Liebig condenser (~950mm 3/4" over 1/2")
Brewzilla 65L (2000w & 1000w & 500w switches + voltage controller)
Heavy duty SS lid. 2" fitting (SG, PV, thermo)
DIY copper SPP (~900mm)


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