8-ball wrote:actually if you get a 15 amp lead and put a 10 amp plug on it its safe but still illegal. id go with that caravan thingy or get a box put a 16amp breaker and a 15amp pp in it with a 10 amp lead wire it up take a pic of how its wired ill have a look at it for ya and bingo same thing only half the price
something like this without the temp controller and obviously in 15amp this would cost $5 for a lead, $10 for a box, $5 for a cb, $25 for the 15amp outlet so about $45 would cover it
2011-12-12 18.06.24.jpg
ps if anyone want me to make one of these for the i can do them for about $125 plus postage or a cooling only $100+ it could be cheaper just have to buy all the gear havnt made one for a while
Bullshit aside, I request that this post be deleted as it gives forum viewers misleading instruction on making a 10 to 15 amp adapter. A 16 amp breaker used in these circumstances will only provide short circuit protection (already provided by fuse or breaker feeding the power point and therefor redundant), it will not offer overload protection of the power point in any form.
A 10 amp outlet is only rated to safely supply 10amps, regardless of the rating of the breaker and cable supplying this outlet, it shall never have more then 10 amps drawn through it from an appliance. Any more current will cause damage to the outlet and significantly increase the risk of electrocution or fire (this can happen long after the initial damage has been done, as once the outlet is damaged its electrical integrity will continue to deteriorate over time with ordinary use.
Ordinarily a 10 amp outlet is protected from overcurrent, as only appliances with a rated maximum current of less then 10amp (it may even be around 8amp, I can't for the life of me recall what standard this rule is in) will have a 10amp plug on it. It will never draw more then 10 amp unless it has a failure which will almost always result in either an open circuit (stops working and draws no current), a short circuit (an incredible amount of current will flow, instantaneously tripping the circuit breaker feeding the outlet), or a fault to earth (popping the residual current device aka safety swith. in older buildings without safety switches, a fault to earth will rely on a low resistance earth path to the multiple earth neutral system to create a short circuit and again, trip the circuit breaker/fuse.).
When an appliance is manufactured that draws more then 10amp, it will be fitted with a 15 amp plug to make it deliberately incompatible with a 10 amp outlet as the appliances maximum current rating is the only overload protection given to a power point.
The ampfibian 10 to 15 amp adapters bypass this protection, but replace it with a circuit breaker (of which I do not know the rating or trip curve, I have my doubts that is is simply a 10amp C curve breaker) To prevent users pushing an appliance past the safe operating current of the outlet, they meet australian standards, and have been deemed a safe option.
8 balls adapter, however, is not. if this design is built it will offer no overload protection for the outlet. The 16amp breaker, in it's intended design, will never cut power to a 15 amp appliance drawing over 10 amp from a 10 amp outlet. It Is effectively the same as making an extension lead with a 10 amp male plug and 15 amp female plug, which also for all of the above reasons, making one, is a very poor decision.
I apologize for my attitude yesterday, but I hope members now understand why I lost my cool when McStill was being given the advice he was been given. Same as if any of you would feel if you saw members without care or knowledge giving dangerous distilling advice that could end very badly.
I worry if the above quoted post stays up, that someone will trustingly build it and will put their faith in it to create a safe environment.
Thank you