B-Man wrote:I've never run a TPW. but most that use it run through a reflux column.
Benny_Stitch wrote:ok so WBAB or TFFV or try both lol?
Professor Green wrote:Benny_Stitch wrote:ok so WBAB or TFFV or try both lol?
Through your air still? WBAB for sure. Since the air-still is a pot still some of the wash flavour will carry over into your spirit; essentially you'll be making a whiskey. In my opinion, it is better for any residual flavour in your final spirit to be a pleasant wheat one.
chipboy wrote:WBAB is surprisingly not want you would want for bourbon, I too like bourbon and have just done my first WBAB, amazing what it comes out like, big initial intro, no taste and warming heavily as it goes down. Not Bourbon, a good neutral, flavour and mild oak slow and patient. That's what I learnt so far, 100% corn attempt this weekend.
Professor Green wrote:Maybe try the cornflake wash if you like bourbon. I would avoid the turbos altogether. WBAB also makes a good base for neutrals if run right.
RuddyCrazy wrote:G'Day Benny,
With all this experimenting your doing mate it may be time to do some reading and up the anti :handgestures-thumbupleft:
First go take at my my malting thread where I just used bog standard fodder store grain, malted it then did a mash and man that for me has left breakfast washes a thing of the past.
Now as the air still is only small lets say 4-5 strip runs to get enough low wines for a spirit run which will blow you away with the sweet malty taste of barely.
A $20 investment in a bag of barely is a natural for one who makes their own and it's about the same for cracked corn so this is where we what we call generations where the first run is called a sweet mash and backset ( or the stuff left in the boiler after a run) is added to to the first ferment to make a sour mash.
I'm sure just using a 23 litre fermenter will be enough to get started and with home malted grain the strike temp or the water in the mash tun or 10 litre stock pot is about 73-74 C so when the malt is added the temp drops so the conversion can start. Now the HBS should have some US-05 yeast so grab that and just put 2kg's of grain down to malt. So put the grains in a bucket with holes drilled in the base and every few hours fill the bucket again, do this for day then find a tray or kind to put the grains and keep the critters out and when it's time to dry the grains just put your oven on at a low temp and fill the house with with that nice barely smell :laughing-rolling: We just want to dry the grains totally then we have to break open the grain so if no crusher or corona mill is there a steel bucket and a prod rod will do the same job.
So I do hope this post will get you thinking about a nice drop and going this way will determine your choice of still for the next instalment of your learning.
Any questions mate just post them in here and don't feel to scared to try mate as we all were when we started.
Cheers Bryan
Benny_Stitch wrote:RuddyCrazy wrote:G'Day Benny,
With all this experimenting your doing mate it may be time to do some reading and up the anti :handgestures-thumbupleft:
First go take at my my malting thread where I just used bog standard fodder store grain, malted it then did a mash and man that for me has left breakfast washes a thing of the past.
Now as the air still is only small lets say 4-5 strip runs to get enough low wines for a spirit run which will blow you away with the sweet malty taste of barely.
A $20 investment in a bag of barely is a natural for one who makes their own and it's about the same for cracked corn so this is where we what we call generations where the first run is called a sweet mash and backset ( or the stuff left in the boiler after a run) is added to to the first ferment to make a sour mash.
I'm sure just using a 23 litre fermenter will be enough to get started and with home malted grain the strike temp or the water in the mash tun or 10 litre stock pot is about 73-74 C so when the malt is added the temp drops so the conversion can start. Now the HBS should have some US-05 yeast so grab that and just put 2kg's of grain down to malt. So put the grains in a bucket with holes drilled in the base and every few hours fill the bucket again, do this for day then find a tray or kind to put the grains and keep the critters out and when it's time to dry the grains just put your oven on at a low temp and fill the house with with that nice barely smell :laughing-rolling: We just want to dry the grains totally then we have to break open the grain so if no crusher or corona mill is there a steel bucket and a prod rod will do the same job.
So I do hope this post will get you thinking about a nice drop and going this way will determine your choice of still for the next instalment of your learning.
Any questions mate just post them in here and don't feel to scared to try mate as we all were when we started.
Cheers Bryan
Hi Ruddy
Thank heaps for writing that up, i was hoping to wait for a new still before getting into that sort of territory, Do you think its worth running it through the air still? Might be a cool project to do over christmas break.
A few questions if you dont mind.
1. So after initial fermentation, drain out the wash and leave the sludge in the bottom of the FV ? then the backset from the stripping runs is added back to the FV for the second gen and topped up with water im assuming? Then how much yeast would need to be added if any to kick of the second gen ferment? Do you add anything else to the second gen?
No more yeast should be needed and after you take out the wash for distilling add some water so the yeast bed doesn't dry out, now you scoop out some of the used grains and assuming the first wash is a pure barely one add some cracked corn and invert some sugar to aim for 1065-170 SG. It won't be long before the ferment kicks off either.
2. You mentioned the first gen makes a "sweet mash" and then due to backset into the 2nd gen wash it produces a "sour mash". How many generations can you do and do you add backwash for every generation? and if so does it become more sour after each generation?
Basically yes
3. This would be best run through a pot still as opposed to a reflux when i decide an an upgrade to keep the flavours to head towards a bourbon / whiskey? im assuming you put the good stuff on oak after your spirit run?
If you put this thru a reflux still all flavour would be lost and if doing it in a pot still one would strip each generation and keep the low wines until there is enough to do a spirit run then after cuts temper down to 65% and age on oak
Thanks again
Benny
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